Start standing with the left hand on an obvious large sidepull/pinch just left of the arete at 5 feet and the right hand on a crimp sidepull at the same level. A tricky pull off the ground leads to some edges on the slab and an easy finish. This boulder looks like a bit like a turtle head from the right angle. A bit awkward. A lower start to the left is possible and will add noticeable difficulty. The exact grade will depend on the starting position as there are a few different options.

Turtle Head

Seaside Slab

Seaside Arete

Turd Bird

Seal Slab

Perhaps the best line here. Start sitting/crouching with hands matched on a pair of edges located at 5 feet, just below the lip of the boulder. Gain a hidden crimp with the left and use it to gain a large rail above. A crimpy little line with fun movement and cool holds. A lower start is possible and would add considerable difficulty (likely somewhere in the v6-v8 range).

Start standing with hands utilizing some underclings at 6-7 feet. Balance up the slab using technical smears to gain the positive lip, topping out near the apex of the boulder. Fun and pleasant climbing. 

Start sitting with both hands matched on the arete at 3-4 feet. Follow the arete as it angles leftwards and top out near the apex. Another pleasant line. 

Start standing and climb the very low angle slab. Best done without hands!

With an approach of 1.5 miles, this boulder is a long walk from the parking area. Is is worth it? That's for you to determine! A decent sized block offering roughly 6 distinct lines with the possibility for more variations. While most of the climbs are in the v0-v3 range, there is the possibliity for a lower start to both 'Turd Bird' and 'Turtle Head', which ups the difficulty considerably. Unlike the other beach boulders at Roanoke Avenue, this boulder can be climbed during all but the highest of tides. What really stands out about Roanoke Point is the pristine and remote feel. This section of beach and the bluffs/land above are one of the least developed stretches of coastline on Long Island and during the late Fall to early Spring, it's unlikely you will see another person on this stretch of beach. The tall bluffs lining this section contain some of prettiest and best preserved stands of beech forest that I've seen on Long Island. I would argue that this boulder is worth checking out for the scenery alone, but the climbing is pretty fun too. A nice bonus is that since all of the climbs feature sandy landings, you don't even need to bring a pad out if you want to lighten your load for the hike.You can also get some more climbing in by hiking to the Penny's Road Boulder, which allows you to take even more of this beautiful coastline in and increases the climbing opportunities. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Roanoke Point Boulder