(No stemming on this route) The crux of this route is absolutely Hugs from thugs (V2+). After the solid jugs and slabby footwork of the problem, the sharp handholds and balancing footwork is rough to get used to. Be conservative on the first two sides and spend your energy on the third face, which is a relatively minor overhang but drains your strength quite quickly.

Start this problem with your back to the cliff at the left side of the largest boulder. There is a large platform to start on, move left around the boulder to take advantage of the angle of the holds. Eventually some hero will climb against the grain and give us a new problem.

Kitten Kisser

Lauren's Crack

Inappropriate Footwear

Hugs from Thugs

Mango's Walkabout

(This is the crack with a golfball in it. It's like...the only one.)

You've got to keep your hands in the crack. you're feet may go where you feel, there's some great drop-knees.

Be sure to keep yourself pulled away from the wall. Have fun!

Oddly enough, the crux is the very first move. Once you've made it past the start you'll jog up. What's good? The slabby face will let you lean into it and run for the view of the ocean. What's bad? Well...it's...super easy?

Start at the broad saddle at the center of the middle boulder. Use the small jugs for each hand and move up the slab. Remember please, that Roe was wearing Vibrams when she went up. Her toes were all bendy.

Starting from the large platform (on the left-hand side of the ocean-side of the largest boulder) The crux of this problem is the third move reaching for a weak grip on a sharp jug. There are strong feet at the beginning to carry the awkward hands and gravity works to your advantage once you've made the move. It's a rough game of finding a deep enough wrinkle to push your toe into for most of the traverse. It won't be much more than a warmup for a good climber, but for a mid-range beginner, it might eat up an hour or more of good fun.

The transition around the corner on the far side (above the chimney) has a few small, sharp holds and you can get pushed around a bit by the wind. Stay high on the boulder to make use of the good footholds about halfway up.

The problem is in tribute to the greatest cat in all the land, Mango. Let your feline tendencies guide you to the warmest faces on the rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bholláin Muire (Mary's Pass)