This route was discovered and attempted by Pavel Kovar, Vendula Kovarova, Misha Logvinov and Etsuko Sakimura II on September 3rd, 2006. At that time, the party underestimated the commitment and the gear requirements, and ended up bailing from half-point. Pavel Kovar and Misha Logvinov came back two weeks later (September 16-17th, 2006) and climbed the entire ridge. The first ascent party ran out of time the first day and spent a cold night on the summit ridge, a few pitches below the summit.

From where you gained the top of the ridge walk for approximately one hundred yards until you a reach a prominent notch (second approach option described above ends at this notch). Beyond this notch the ridge becomes steep and technical. To bypass the first set of obstacles, go north (right) and drop down 20-30'. Continue traversing the northern side of the ridge on ledges and loose blocks for a few hundred feet until you can easily (Class 4) climb back to the ridge proper. Once the ridge is regained, stay on it as much as you can past several rises, towers and gendarmes (Class 4 to 5.7, sustained most of the way). Dropping from the ridge substantially won't get you much and could put you on a loose and unpleasant terrain. Staying on the ridge proper is harder in places but much cleaner. The route may look impossible at times, however, there is a way to bypass the obstacles on either left or right side (while still staying on the ridge proper). Most of the time the rock quality is very good but be mindful of occasional loose shelves and blocks. There will be seemingly endless technical downclimbs and traverses. On the first ascent, we did not feel the need for rappelling and were able to downclimb most of the obstacles (some downclimbs were up to 5.7 in difficulty). Only in one spot I flaked our rope around the block and got lowered a few feet. Eventually, you will reach the broad plateau where the East and NE ridges meet. The crux of the NE ridge will be on the last several hundred yards before you reach the plateau. This is where we belayed for about 10 pitches. Due to a lot of traversing and significant rope drag, pitches tend to be short. Prior to that, we simul-climbed. A confident and experienced party may be able to solo or simul-climb the entire ridge.

After you reach the plateau, you will continue climbing to the summit on the East Ridge. Secor rates the entire East Ridge route Grade I, 5.4, which is in our opinion a MAJOR, MAJOR sandbag. After scrambling for a few hundred feet above the plateau, the ridge will rapidly steepen. You would want to rope up again approximately 150' below the final rise to the summit ridge. That pitch will involve some 5.easy climbing until you reach prominent double cracks located on the false summit. Negotiate these cracks for about 20' (5.7+) to get to easier ground and continue traversing on the climbers right. Several more 5.easy pitches will get you to the final ridge leading to the summit block. This is a very cool section of the climb that features a knife edge "walk" with wild exposure, a few technical downclimbs and an absolutely wild horizontal hand-traverse (bomber finger crack and very few footholds for 10-15').

Now after climbing for close to 1.5 miles, you are finally at the summit block. For the detailed beta about solving the summit block please consult with the South Face route description.

North East Ridge (full)

East Ridge Indirect

East Face - Ramp Route

First Section (CL3):

Class 3 scrambling gains the North East Ridge, which is initially almost a plateau; it narrows as you begin to gain height. Evenually the first big step in the ridge is reached, where the ridge levels off momentarily.

Second Section (CL4)

On the left a ramp/ledge system runs across the east face - follow this first downwards then gradually up to the huge broken pillar which runs up the face.

Third Section (5.7)

Two exposed crack pitches lead up this top part of the pillar. The second pitch follows a crack to end at a roof, where a hand traverse heads left, then up a short crack to finish at the second notch east of the summit.

Scrambling leads from here to the summit block.

Solo down the Bolton Brown (South Face) Route (5.4).

NOTE: East Ridge itself was FAed in 1948 by Fred Davenport and Standish Mitchell. This route bypasses the crest of the ridge by traversing down onto the East Face.

A committing route because of its remote location.

Up snow to the beginning of the ramp.

P1-2 (5.8) Climb the ramp using cracks in the corner and later traversing right to the edge.

P3-5 (Class 3) Pitches heading for the summit exit cracks and ending at a sandy ledge where the face steepens.

P6-8 (5.8) There seem to be choices. Climb steep but well-protected cracks which lead to the east ridge.

The summit block has its moments - so suck up and go.

Solo down the Bolton Brown (South Face) Route (5.4).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mt. Clarence King