The sustained, slightly overhanging nature of this shortie route will keep you wide awake.    Sustained moves on generally good holds on steep rock keep you pumped as you aim for not-quite-as-good-as-they-look scoops and dishes on the steep face to a neat little tufa-like pinch. Finish on lower-angle, licheny rock past one more bolt to the anchors.  

  Short and full value. Likely 11+ or so for taller climbers. A bit more difficult for shorties.

Hypnagogic Jerk

Nocturnal Urinator

Exploding Head Syndrome

A short and sweet little line on great, sculpted rock with big holds and pockets.    Climb up with tricky moves and smooth feet and trend right between giant holds on great, water sculpted, black-streaked rock.

Unfortunately inconsistent in difficulty but nice movement on good rock mostly makes up for the change in difficulty.    Stick clip the high first bolt (and clip the belayer's end of the rope through the belay/directional bolt down low) and crank bouldery V4 moves for twelve feet finishing with a big move to a fantastic jug at fifteen feet up. Powerful moves lead to stemming in a corner. Above that, thinner but easier face climbing leads to the shared anchor with Hypnagogic Jerk

Another small panel of good rock just left of Huacas that offers three short, yet interesting, routes on neat rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sleeper