The first bolted route to the right of Stones Throw.

Throwin' the Finger

Torqued

Joint Effort

Tioga Tower

Gold Dust

Swiss Chocolate

Felix

Bag O' Tricks

Poindexter

House of the Rising Sun

Lizard King

Feel the Love

Silver Bullet

Stones Throw

Master Cylinder

Through The Heart

A real gem and arguably one of the best routes (and its fully trad!!) at the cliff! One of the better routes of the grade/style in the area! Way better (and more solid) than it looks. Definitely has cleaned up since the first time I was on it maybe 10 years ago!

Steep blocks and 5.9 jamming gets you to a funky section with cool moves up and left (Red Alien size in the low flare -- #0 TCU or #00 TCU (better) in the middle of the 10d-ish moves). A 5.10 section with good gear links into the upper headwall seam and radical crux bulge. A #6 Stopper is bomber in an obvious hole before stemming moves up and out right. Its too hard to get anything worth trying to place before the last opening in the seam just before the bulge. Place a nut (#5 HB) low and shallow or a BD .1 Micro-Camalot from a barndoor stance/stem. Now the door is swinging wide open. Control the urge to swing out and punch it! Lieback, pinch and yard yourself over the bulge to  a jam and good edges where a #1 TCU fits nicely. Cruise to the bolted anchor...11d/12a

An indistinct black face of hard and crimpy edges lead past 3 bolts and loose flake pulls to a large, juggy overlap which flexes and seems like its about to break and explode all over your belayer. Dirty headwall leads to the anchor. Not a good warm-up.

Probably wont have chalk on it...Reason why.

Begin by climbing a steep dihedral passing three bolts, pass a roof by stepping slightly right to the arete, pass another easy roof and ultimately out the roof crack shared with Swiss Chocolate.

Shares an anchor and the last four bolts with Swiss Chocolate.

This is one of the better warm ups at the Tioga Cliff.

A short but fun sport route which pulls through three slight bulges above ledges on the South Face of the formation. The rock quality isn't the best but the movement is actually pretty good for the grade. Very short compared to everything else at the Cliff so it probably isn't he best warm up for your mega proj down the hill.  Makes a good cool down or maybe a way to encourage your less strong friends to join you at the Cliff for the evening.

Bouldery start right off of the ground (V5?) followed by sustained delicate climbing to the anchors

Climbs through blocky roofs to a crux bulge slot then up small hard to see holds through a slab and finally through the hand crack roof which is shared with Joint Effort.

Start in a left-facing corner and traverse left to clip the first two long fixed draws (currently have green cord). Head up steep juggy roof terrain and then take some deep breaths before pulling onto the headwall proper. Once on the headwall make super fun, and at times dynamic, moves on underclings and sidepulls. This section feels reminiscent of Owens River Gorge 5.12 edge pulling, but on granite. And fear not, for if you peel the ride will be airy and clean, so go for it! Once at the obvious rest ledge clip the long draw and head left to the grey mussys on 5.10 terrain.

From here you can continue up the Felix/Styles Extension which goes out the roof on wild moves to a tenuous yet powerful slab. Some kinda spooky moves over a ledge are required to reach the anchor, but the climbing is fun. Probably adds a letter grade. (80M rope required).

Its hard right off the deck. Don't let the bolts lure you to thinking its a sport-rig!

Pump it up to the roof and place a piece or two. Make another hard (trick) move into the scoop and over the roof (cool!). Interesting rock connects to another roof move which is surprisingly easy...The next move is harder than it looks.

Great climbing the whole way!!

The right most bolted line at the Tioga Cliff. Some easy climbing leads to four bolts with fixed chain draws.

Start on "feel the love", but head straight up to a fixed draw instead of left for the inverted "v" roof on "feel the love". Gain the lip on rad finger jugs and then join "through the heart" for a bolt of two into the big left facing corner. There is a fixed draw dangling on the corner, clip it and do some wild bouldery moves to a decent stance on top of the lip. Head up on crimps and jugs to another cruxy mantle move guarding the anchors.

A long, classic, demanding voyage. Lizard King itself is the right-angling line that crosses the square "movie screen" high up on the cliff just to the left of the dihedral of Silver Bullet and goes at 13a. Three possible entrances will get you to a ledge/intermediate anchor, but most will do this as one long pitch. An 80M will just get you back to the ground from the 5.11 start - best to tie knots. After rain this route can become incredibly sandy, so bring a brush/broom/vacuum.

To start climb one of the following (listed L to R):

- Get To The Roof (5.11a): Large flake 20ft to the left of Racerback with extremely long draws to minimize drag. After a finger crack head right to the Racerback anchor.

- Racerback (5.13b): Directly below the movie screen in a left-facing corner. Starts either with tenuous linebacking (recommend stick-clip) or via a bolt to the right of the first chain draw (back-clean once you clip the 2nd). Racerback heads left at bolt 5 for its crux, then straight up to a ledge/anchor where Lizard King begins. The original way, though out of fashion now.

- Unknown (5.12): Start Racerback but at the 5th bolt head up and right via an undercling crack. Permas on all except one optional bolt that will create drag if left clipped. Bring an alpine for this routes' anchor or run it out to the Racerback anchor. This variation is not in the guidebook (4th edition).

A route that rivals its peers at Tioga for quality but sees less traffic, Iya feels more like a true face climb than some others on the wall. Chain permadraws make for a convenient outing, so jump on this if the other 5.12s you're after are busy - and even if they aren't.

The wet streak to the right of this climb apparently varies in size over time, so it's possible that parts of this climb could be wet. If so, it should be easy to tell from the ground. If the chalk/tick marks get washed off, try and appreciate the opportunity for a true onsight as the pump clock counts down...

Face climb, lay back, and mantle your way through the first 3 or four bolts, then head left to an inverted "v" roof, clip another bolt and surmount the lip, pause and then get ready to side pull and crimp your way to the anchor.

One of the coolest lines of its type...Which is everything...Could be lead almost entirely on so-so gear but its got bolts. Actually every bolt has fixed chain and biners. After doing the route you'll feel like you just did a lieback and dyno problem, a wild bombay chimney, a cool handcrack in a corner, a bouldery arete crossover to roof jamming move and a moderate pitch of stemming and edging.

This ain't no rinky-dink "sport" climb!

Its got really good moves and fairly sustained climbing on good rock. It may be fully bolted with chains and biners on every bolt but...

Don't blow the 3rd clip or it could be bad. Kind of hairy past the 3rd bolt (11+) too. Great movement with some rests sets you up for a tricky crux glide out right 3/4 of the way up. Get it!

A few bolts of moderate climbing up through a slight chimney brings you to the first crux over a slight bulge and thin face. After a nice ledge and some more moderate climbing up a mini-arete there is the second crux, a finger crack in a corner below a large roof, and the chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tioga Wall