This route is fairly easy, but I do not suggest leading it, as it is severely runout.

The rock here is quite obviously sandy, so many smears result in ball-bearing like friction. Lots of small rocks embedded in the sandstone provide good holds, though some tend to pop out.

If you have more info on this route, send me a PM.

The Old Route

Sandstone Balls

Big Love

It's easy to combine both pitches into one but the first pitch is the best.

P1)

Climb easy terrain to the first bolt about 30 feet up and then continue up the waterstreak using pebbles and cobbles past a distinct crux at the 7th bolt to finish on a large ledge with a small tree.

P2)

Continue up past 5 more bolts and then run it out on easy terrain to a large ledge with another set of anchors.

To descend make two single rope raps to the ground with a 60 meter rope or longer.

If doing just the first pitch a 60 meter rope will get you down to the 1st bolt from which it's an easy down-climb to reach the base of the route.

Climb up and slightly right through a large concentration of pebbles and cobbles and then head more or less straight up past a thinner section midway (crux) before larger holds lead up and left past a distinct friction move to chain anchors on a ledge.

A little run-out in places but there's always a bolt right before a hard move.

Descend by rappelling or lowering to the stance for the 1st bolt on the route to the left (

Sandstone Balls

).

A 70 meter rope is recommended.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mormon Slab