Don't blame me, I didn't name it.  Good Stone.  Up the blond streak right of "No Deck-A-Dunce"   Fun lower climbing leads to not much for hands in the crux. The crux comes at the 2nd-3rd bolt. Heel hook with your right and slowly work the arête feature up through the bulge. After the last bolt there is a minor run out to the top and the anchor is hidden below the very top. CHECK THE QUICKDRAW ANCHOR. REPAIR IF NEEDED PLEASE.

Hobo Testes

Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe

Liquid Tofu

Spermatose

Ne Soyez Pas Un Poile Moilee

No Deck a Dunce

Whiskey Dick

Toprope Route

Getting The Bob

Golden Showers

Men Without Egos

Follow bolts. Lots of side pulls. The feet can be tricky.

This is the best 5.8 at Falling Rock.  Directly across the canyon from Garden Party is a black limestone block semi-detached from the main cliff.  This route climbs the inner corner of the block facing back towards the parking lot. It is the leftmost of three routes on this wall.  It is easily identified by the horizontal gash at 1/3 height. 

  This route is fairly reachy moving up to and past the horizontal, but the holds are all there.  Sustained classic moderate limestone face climbing. 

Fun route that is in a beautiful location. Good holds and fun movements. Watch for hornets!! 

Get to Spermatose by following the directions in the South Canyon Wall description.  The trail takes you right to the top, and just walk over to the rock protrusion to toprope it. To lead it, hike down a steep gully to the right. The climb goes up the west face past bolts.

Fun short route, anchors below the roof. This route was recently rebolted and seemed that it was decided to end the route short to avoid the loose section above. Makes it shorter but doesn't take away from the climb whatsoever.  

Follows the exposed arete up the overhang with anchors at the top. A surprisingly fun and cool route that sees little traffic. Wild exposure on the overhang with a cool bear hug and heel hook for the crux moves.

This is a really fun route. Follow the large flakes all the way up. Great holds and feet. It very close to BAHBTAWB but because of the flakes you do not really notice. There are about 5 anchors above it so it is very easy to set up a toprope on. 

This route is the bolted arete just right of Men Without Egos. Use Men Without Egos anchors. See description for Men Without Egos for approach.

See directions for "Spermatose"... this route climbs the rock outcropping opposite from "Spermatose"...  belay from the small ledge about 2/3 down the face... it's very wise to stick-clip the first bolt...  the first 10-12 feet climbs probably the most uncomfortable rock imaginable; sharp and pointy and just plain crappy to put your hands and fingers on...  after this the climbing goes into typical Falling Rock face climbing... this one reminded me of "France by Chance" on the North Canyon Wall...  it really is worth a go...  i'd like to hear what others think of this one...

To access this route drive south on Falling Rock Rd. past the parking for the North Wall. Continue into canyon and up the otherside. At the top of the hill a blocked road will appear on the left. Park here then hike old road to east. Upon reaching the top of the South Wall continue walking east-northeast along a trail. Aim for the northeast rim of the canyon to the north. Upon reaching the northeast corner of the rim locate a coulair that is north facing and descend. After exiting the coulair, move right (eastward) along the base of the cliff. The wall this route is on will appear around the corner from the coulair. There are three routes on this buttress. Men Without Egos is the center route. Another bolt was added to the route this spring by Brent K. It is wise to stick-clip the first bolt.

The south wall of Falling Rock Canyon sees much less traffic, and the climbs are harder to find.  The aspect of the cliff is north facing, so it is a good wall to climb on in the afternoon with shade offered.  The climbing is mainly on bolted vertical limestone faces with small pockets.  There are only a handful of routes to be done here.

Description

Protection

Routes in South Canyon Wall