A left-arching crack that consists of jamming, stemming, laybacking. Very picturesque and climbed a while back by the local crushers that eventually took their skills down to the New River Gorge.

This climb can be persistently wet after a good bit of rain, but does dry up nicely after about a week of no precipitation.

Archangel

Vulture Wing

Crack Master

Pocket, Lock & Drop It

O'Brien Is A Wimp

Begins with a scramble to the base of a small left-facing corner with a hand-sized crack. Ride this until the corner flips to face the right. The wall then begins to kick back and crack gets slightly smaller.  Be on the lookout up there for a couple pockets on the right side of the arete.  This climb has some compression moves at the top and can feel pretty burly.  It was originally given a grade of 5.9+... but in 2020 5.10 seems a bit more appropriate.

Stand start on large underclings and climb up to small iron crimps. Smear left on the large sloping foothold and continue up the tall slab to topout. Plenty of small intermediate crimps on this one.

Begin as with O'Brien is a Wimp, at the base of the double cracks on O'Brien is a Wimp. Continue up the crack until you reach the alcove. From here follow the diagonal crack up and left trending toward the seemingly blank face that is sprinkled with some perfect moves and a bolt. Move up and right through the heavily featured roof to the two bolt anchor.  Beware of loose rock in the roof as this is a recently established route.

Either climb the double handcracks like a tall refrigerator or ride one of them to an alcove, then figure out your beta through finger-locks/tiny feet to an eventual standing position.  This climb has an obvious crux that will require some crack technique. It takes small gear well so no worries there. Just know if you sew it up you may be blocking a finger-lock or toe jam!  Super fun and the name begs some interesting questions!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cheat View