The highlight of this route is the slope-y traverse leftwards. Gear was sparse on the FA which made for a heady lead. Meander left then meander right at the top. A variation through the roof to the left at the top remains an unknown possibility.

Style note: Scott led this ground-up. Came back later and cleaned many small rocks out of the cracks. It protects much better now.

Sphincteritis

Egressus

I'd Give My Left Nut

DisLichen' It

Tank Tracks

Moai Geddit

Canine

The Boneyard

Moai Don Geddit

Fingercicles

Climb the dihedral to a good ledge. The crux is not far above, so double up on pro, and wake your belayer. Handholds to the right may not support gear, but there is a key, textbook, micronut placement just left of the crack at the crux. You can get good gear the rest of the way to the top.

Style note: this route was cleaned of loose blocks and previewed on TR.

The feet are less secure at the beginning on the slab. The start takes small pro, but the holds and the available protection get better as the wall gets steeper. There is a big, well-set chockstone about 2/3 of the way up. For the final moves you can layback for 10 feet right below the anchor or you can go left on easier terrain.

Style note: the route was inspected on rappel to clean off dangerous, loose blocks. It was first climbed as a solo-TR. Led it a few weeks later.

egredior, egressus

: to go out, leave, depart, exit.

This route is on the right side of the crag. Traverse in from the gully to a short dihedral. The crux finger crack is just above and right. Continue up through a chimney of sorts to some funky 5.9 moves near the top.

Scott grumbled about the slickness of ice over lichen. This is best climbed in the afternoon instead.

Bring your ODub gear. This route tackles the wideness on the left edge of the crag. The crux happens near the middle at a 'Y' shaped junction. Thrutch your way up to a slight rest where you can catch your breath below the intimidating roof, which is slightly easier than what you just did.

Style note: Scott led this ground up in very cold weather. My hands froze, and I had to hang following it.

Moai Geddit is the most vertical crack system on the right side of Easter Island. Near the summit it enters a cleft in the face with some daylight showing between the blocks. Follow the dihedral system all the way to the top passing three distinct crux sections and a few big remaining blocks that look spooky (but have been jumped up and down on).

Style note: this was a ground-up lead that originally followed a meandering path left and back right. Now there are two distinct routes that have cleaned up to be very high quality climbs.

This route has a memorable crux. The fang of rock at the midpoint of the route makes for some interesting climbing moves. Solid crack climbing follows from #1s to #4s and back to thin. It is very enjoyable.

Style note: the route was inspected on rappel to clean off dangerous loose blocks. First climbed as a TR. Led it a few weeks later.

The pitch starts off low-angle, but it gets interesting pretty quickly. Get through a finger crack bulge to a keyhole in the cliff, then stem the narrowing chimney until you can escape up and left for an exciting finish. The climbing is strenuous in places.

In the alcove below the keyhole, we found a clean bleached femur from some rodent.

Style note: this was led ground-up. The route was cleaned later on rappel and takes better gear now than on the FA.

Follow a finger crack up the slab to a left-facing dihedral system. The crux comes 3/4 up the route at a wide section with a bulge. Above that there is a small ledge with a roof split by a #3 crack before the blocky finish.

Style note: this route was cleaned of dangerous blocks on rappel and reviewed on TR. The middle of the route was formerly part of the route to the right until

Moai Geddit

was cleaned up enough to be led straight up.

This thin crack splits a face that is less than vertical. It's short but sweet, and it looks harder from below than it actually is.

Style note: this was led ground-up on a frigid morning. Several blocks were cleaned off by the last follower.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Easter Island