Start on excellent rock with a few largish vesicles down low. Following good rock, continue up aiming for the left side of a fin of rock that juts out up high. The edge of the rib is a bit loose but the seams a few feet on the left face are good for pro. Belay by a good ledge and lasso the top of the ridge for a belay, all of the rock here is too loose for reliable gear or bolts. To descend, hike down the hill a short ways to rappel from the anchor of Fire on the Horizon (a 60m rope will get you within few easy 5th class feet of the ground).

Fletched With Love

It's All Good in the Hood

Any Given Day

Cherry Pickin' Side Hustlin' Ragtime Cats

Pleasure Center

Alpine Starter

Tower of Tiny Town

Reward Cicuit

Fire on the Horizon

Demolition Crew

Begin with the broken dihedral/arete through a slight overhang where the arete becomes more uniform. At the slight headwall step right, past the finger crack of Fire on the Horizon, to a seam that wraps around the side of the column just a few feet left of the chimney. Where the seam ends climb the wider cracks left of a stack of large boulders. Belay on top of the boulders or stop at the ledge with bolts 10’ from the top. Rappel from the bolts of Fire on the Horizon (a 60m rope will get you within few easy 5th class feet of the ground).

Begin with the broken dihedral/arete through a slight overhang where the arete becomes more uniform. At the slight headwall step left to the wide crack through the roof. Finish on discontinuous cracks and face. Belay on a nice ledge with bolts. On the chimneyish right side of the column a 60m rope will reach to within a few feet of the ground with an easy 5th class scramble.

Same start as for Reward Circuit by the tiny arete but surmount the bulge on the right then continue straight up to finish on the wide crack at the top. Belay on a nice ledge with bolts.

Start in a shallow dihedral, or the thin cracks on the right that merge with the dihedral a little ways up. The dihedral ends with a small ledge, from here continue up the crack on the left side of a rounded bulge, staying right of easier loose terrain. Belay on a large ledge at the top of the cliff and descend from the bolts of Reward Circuit.

Begin in the dihedral formed by the right side of Tower of Tiny Town. At the top of the tower continue up on small cracks through good rock for 15’ to a small loose rock filled gully/ramp then step right when it ends onto more good rock and follow the face to a good ledge, belay with gear. To descend, step up one more ledge and rappel from the bolts of Reward Circuit.

Climb the right side of the arete on a small,  not quite detached column. A 3” horizontal crack halfway is the first pro available and small brass nuts protect the second half. Descend from bolts on top of the tower.

Climb a tiny arete to a slight bulge with a crack on the left, above this step left to the next crack. The crack ends at a second bulge, pass this on the left and follow mostly thin cracks up the center of the rounded bulge. Belay on a nice ledge with bolts.

Begin with the broken dihedral/arete through a slight overhang where the arete becomes more uniform. Step slightly right and pull the roof though the obvious finger crack. This is the crux and it can be done using the crack and/or face holds at the same grade. The crack ends a few feet above the roof. Clip a bolt and step left to easy moves or fire the face with another 5.9 move to a ledge. Face climb past a few horizontals and small seams to the belay bolts at the top. Rappel the right side of the column (a 60m rope will get you within few easy 5th class feet of the ground).

Follow the crack on the left side of the column with the roof. Belay from bolts on a small ledge with a creosote bush.

Excellent rock full that’s of cracks and opportunity. Most of the cliff is less than vertical and the routes are quite casual. An excellent place to cut your teeth on trad or an easy day on fun holds.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lava Butte Wall