Climbs the beautiful arete between Kremlin Wall (on the left) and Knightline (on the right).

King of the Castle

Hammock Boys

Grappling Hooks

Castle Crack

Kremlin Wall

The Roofs

Pigeon Wings

A challenging route with a good position and length but the poor bolting and contrived run-outs make this a seldom led route.

Climbs the arete bulge to the left of Pigeon Wings chimney (9 bolts). Use the tiny flakes and arete of the chimney. Many holds are flaking off, be mindful of pulling off flakes. Variation to the left that follows 5 bolts and up, or continue on the arete portion to the top.

Located to the right of the roofs. Climb the thin dihedral that was once an aid ladder (3 old bolts), and moving up the face for the variation (.11) or you can continue up Castle Crack to finish (10c/d).

Located to the right of Pigeon Wings and The Roofs. Starts off in a

thin crack. Meander up and left (10d) or right (10c) to a small alcove, then work your way up the groove.Some call it the best crack in the SB's,that is debatable with the actual amount of crack climbing the name suggests…

Right next to Pigeon Wings. This climbs the obvious roofs then intersects with the top face portion of Pigeon Wings (9 bolts). Some foot/hand holds are prone to flaking off, be mindful of pulling off flakes.

Pigeon Wings is the large chimney that splits the south face of Castle Rock.Get past the bird gauno. Chicken wing, jam, stem, slither your way up from a wide chimney over a huge boulder/chockstone, then into a roof/bulge with a hand/fist crack exit. Beware of the pigeons and the guano.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (b) Castle Rock - South Face