LUMPY GRAVY ARETE 5.7 *** (100') M(5b)

Climb the left edge of the slab at the southern end of the Middle Wall. Wonderful climbing to the big ledge with the 2 chain anchors. A variety of small to large cams needed before, between and after the bolts (save a #.5 for the top section).

Lumpy Gravy Arete

Weasels Ripped My Flesh

Wavy Gravy

Get A Little

Oh No

WAVY GRAVY 5.7 ** (85') M (5b)

Begin at the base of the gully left of the Middle Wall Slab and climb the corner and narrow face left of the arete to share the chain anchors on top with Lumpy Gravy". Large cams essential for protecting the middle crux.

WEASELS RIPPED MY FLESH 5.8 ** (180') M (9B)

Begin as for the arete route but after the first 5 feet, hand traverse about 5' to the right and continue directly up the thin vertical crack. A wide range of gear is needed  small to large if doing the whole pitch (chain anchors plus extra bolt on top). It is also possible to break it into 2 pitches;

P1 - 5.7 *** 105' M (4b)

P2 - 5.8 ** 75' M (5b)

GET A LITTLE 5.8 ** (50') M (2b)

Begin about 15' right of Oh No and climb the face just left of the crack to the 2 chain anchors over the top.

OH NO 5.9 ** (100') F (9b)

At the right side of the slab climb the face (past the jagged left edge of the lower alcove) to the high chain anchors with an extra bolt around to the left. The lower part is hard and wonderful on somewhat questionable rock, and the upper face eases up considerably and is a bit runout, but leads to an exciting finish getting onto the big ledge. May want a long cordelette to backup the top anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Middle Wall