Impotence

Adolescent Homosapien

Bestiality

[Redacted]

Lowe Route

Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll

Sexual Dysfunction

Loafers

Divine Decadence

The Big Easy

McKenzie's Crack

Flesh for Fantasy

Testosterone Test

Twilight

Another Greg Lowe Route (aka Preteen Sex)

Carol's Crack

Pluton Playground

Dimples and Tits

Too Much Testosterone

This is a great route with a couple powerful sequences.  Start in a hard lieback past a bolt and then a dicey mantle.  Climb up into an undercling crack with gear and then a powerful section past a fixed Lost Arrow.  Then another tricky section past a bolt on a bulge then climb over more bulges with okay gear to the top.  A great line with some great climbing!

Adolescent Homosapien

climbs the obvious long hand and finger crack on the west side of Lower Breadloaf. Great continuous climbing leads to the crux just below the top of the climb. An extremely popular route on an extremely popular wall. Walk left a few feet and rap from anchor's near the top of Double Crack.

Start on a ramp, and immediately hit the crux.  A vertically placed 00 tcu gives some mental pro to keep you off the approach slab.  You also have the option of a shallowly placed #1 metolius near the 00.  You can also step up before fully committing to the crux and place an even better #1 metolius that you actually feel good about.

After working your feet up and pulling a somewhat interesting side pull while leaning, you step up into the crack and get some good pro.  Follow the corner system to the top.

AKA:

Another Jay Goodwin Route

. A route with another censored name in Bingham's guide, is a fun mix of climbing.  It starts with some fun face climbing to the lone bolt.  From here you get to a stance below the roof, plug your gear, and pull the roof (crux) as you see fit.  Insecure finger jams greet your attempt though.  The climbing stays fun and insecure through the next steep section.  As the fin on the left narrows the holds get bigger and bigger, but the steepness stays with you.  A great route with sustained climbing makes this route well worth it.

According to the Bingham guidebook: "This Lowe Route is a continuous crack line with decent pro and lots of face holds."

This route has an interesting bulge right at the first clip.  The next 3 bolts or so cover easy ground to a final steep juggy wall.

An "evil" route with hard presses, thin feet, tough liebacking and awesomely funky moves.

Fun in a sad way, cool moves, but involves some figuring out to get the beta that works for you.

AKA:

Jay Goodwin Route

.

This starts just left of

Preteen Sex

, this bolted line is a good warmup for the tougher routes on the wall.  5.10a crimps abound, with a little bit of runout.

Loafers is a reasonable "more of same" sort of line on this face.  It does not have a particular place, other than being on the face to the right of the Quartz Dike on 'Dykes on Harleys' and left of the Lowe Route.  Without worrying too much about where it goes, most climbers looking for the intersection of the easiest line with some protection, starting just above the ramp of D.O.H. will probably encounter a similar experience.

This is the larger crack to the immediate right of Carol's Crack.

A good steep crack with interesting moves and good protection.

I explored this chimney with a steep fingers to hands start finding it extremely dirty. This may be an old route, but with the amount of loose rock, dead trees, peeling flakes, bones, guano, plants and dirt I think it was unclimbed. I trundled a 2x2x3' rock out of the chimney, scrubbed and scraped lichen, peeling flakes and dug out the dirt. I think it is really fun, well the climb, not the cleaning.

Begin with overhanging finger locks to good hand jam. Keeps getting wider, fists, OW, few more hand jams, small crack on the right, mantle up on big ledge. You can either continue up chimney (5.6) or finish out on finger- hand crack on the left, maybe 10a.

Nice little finger/hand crack to nowhere. 8 yr old, McKenzie's first possible FA with D. Tyler.

This is a nice mixed bolt and gear route.  There are a few places where you have to climb a bit above your gear, but it is all pretty reasonable.  Nice rock with some good steep climbing near the end.

Flesh for Fantasy

climbs moderate cracks to the base of a bolted headwall.  It is easy to approach by rapping to the ledge below the headwall and pulling your rope.

Follow ~4 bolts through thin 5.10 face climbing to an interesting undercling stand up move to a good hold.  It is a one move wonder, but worth the effort.

This is a decently long route that starts up a crack and crosses over a small fin to the left and then continues up another crack/groove system.

This route has many unique moves and is stout for the grade. The start is just to the right of the 3-bolt line, Nipples & Clits (5.10a).

Jam and stem up two steep shallow cracks. This looks difficult to protect, but takes a #2 and #3 camalot quite well. Easier terrain up higher leads to a rightward traverse to a thin crack system. Follow this finger crack to the top with a few tough moves along the way.

Rappel with a 60m rope from either the anchors on Sex, Drugs, Rock & Roll (just to the right), or walk to the anchors near Carol's Crack.

AKA:

Double Cracks

. This is on the left side of the west face.  It is in deep shade early morning.  It is easy to identify by the closely spaced double cracks that start on top of the large leftward rising ramp.  Scramble up the ramp any way you choose, then jam the fun crack for 50 feet or so until it lowers angle.  No anchor at the top.

To rap, scramble to your right (when facing the cliff) to an anchor.  A one rope rap with a 60m touches down near the ground, where a short scramble off is easy.

The climbing on this is really good, but the upper crack is so short that it is over too quickly!

The route follows a gully-chimney, and is best climbed left side in; upwards movement is facilitated by profuse, positive holds on the right face. Pro possibilities abound. Only occasionally are any chimney-type moves required, and those only for rests while finding the chickenheads and huecos on the face. The well-featured rock salvages what would otherwise be a grovel fest "Bomb" from obscurity.

Descend to climber's left down the chimney; we stayed roped for this and caution is advised.

The climbing is suitble for beginners, but the descent is a bit sketchy.

AKA:

Kibbles and Bits

.

A short, but sweet line up the left side of a randomly featured, face.

Begin off the ground up a steep, blank, slab to reach a very high section of edges and holds (A running start may be needed for some takers). Mantle this bulge feature and work left towards the very high first bolt. Continue up and left toward to the second bolt using a sparse amount of holds and careful footwork. Meet the crux near the third bolt using thin crimps, and misleading patina. Finish on positive holds up declining terrain.

A great line that is often skipped because of its high first bolt. If you're comfortable at the grade and/or have a solid head, this lead won't be an issue. Give it a whirl.

Plenty of good features on this long, straight forward climb.  Would be a great first time lead for the aspiring trad climber at the city - easy climbing, sufficient places for pro, lots of options for anchor building at top.

TMT

shares the start with

Testosterone Test,

but at the undercling diagonalling horizontal crack below the knife blade on

TT

,

TMT

traverses left on all natural gear to the patina'd overhanging arete. The first crux establishes one on the arete. Cams in horizontals protect the climbing all the way to the top, where

TMT ultimately

traverses back right to share the TT anchors. TMT surmounts a bouldery roof about 20 feet left of the final TT roof, ignoring and staying to the left of a random bolt that may be an old forgotten Boyle route (or an unfinished concept). Pulling this bulge/roof is route's crux-good cams in horizontals 10 feet below you. Fun climbing and a good challenge, despite the folly of skipping the old bolt. One of the only routes I know of like it at the

City of Rocks.

Description

Routes in Decadent Wall