Near the left side of the wall is a natural weakness. One can either do a sit-start, or start on the interesting pinch-hold. Then make a few big moves to good holds to reach the lip. Keep your cool and turn the lip.

Spanky Direct

A long steeply overhanging wall. Its south-facing aspect means it stays pretty warm in the winter, and it is sheltered enough that it can be comfortably climbed even on windy days at Pena Blanca. The sheer length of the wall make it a great place for a large group to hang out, although there are not too many developed problems. Archeological evidence also makes it a nice spot to chill, although the grinding holes can be found all over Pena Blanca. 

  The most obvious thing to climb here is the long traverse. Go as far as you want. Variations of this add difficulty, and a few lines tackle the steeps.

Description

Protection

Routes in Spanky's Love Shack