There is no specific crux on these 4th class ridge routes. You can dial up plenty of 5th class moves if you want, or avoid them to keep it easy. This is a nice route on solid rock. Return the way you came.

Southwest Ridge

North Ridge

Southeast Slope

Northeast Face

Posted here because it's the descent route.

There's an obvious short snow couloir (talus in late season) at the left end of the Southeast Ridge. Climb up this, cross over to the south side then follow Class 3 rocks below the crest of the ridge to the summit.

To my knowledge this spectacular ridge has never been climbed direct.

Start on the west side of the ridge, then cross over to the east side and negotiate an awkward chimney. Airy ridge climbing leads to Tower 1 pass this on the east. Stay on the east to Tower 2, to a tricky spot passing under several overhanging blocks and descending into the gully between 2 and 3. Then pass around the buttress which forms Tower 3. Once past 3 climb up the loose gully to the notch to the right of the small tower (3.5) between 3 and 4. Go down and cross under 3.5 (sand or seasonal snow), and head up to the buttress of Tower 4, a ledge leads across this to an easy gully up to the gap just before the main summit block (top of Feather Couloir). A 5.4 pitch leads up the headwall to the summit.

About 6 hours.

Another one of those High Sierra east faces which doesn't gets done much - but it's a good outing, especially the last 2 pitches which are pretty physco. The last pitch is very memorable.

P1 (5.7) Loose crack off sloping ledge.

P2 (5.7) Shallow groove, heading rightwards.

P3 (5.4) Easy climbing over loose blocks to sandy ledges.

P4 (5.4) Up chimney behind blocks and around the corner - good stuff.

P5 (5.6) Up easy slabs and cracks - fun.

P6 (5.4) Up rib, then right, easy.

P7 (5.4) Easy loose section right then up steps to platform.

P8 (5.6) Up cracks and big flakes to base of left-facing dihedral splitting the Headwall.

P9 (5.8) Good climbing up steep corner 'till beneath the roof then pull onto a cool, exposed little ledge and wonder why you ever came. Small wires and cams for belay.

P10 (5.9 crux) On the left, awkward and exposed up and over into the final crack - which is sustained all the way to a step left and toe traverse just below the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Feather Peak