Getting off the ground is the crux. Starting at a long incut crimp (mossy), climb straight up on interesting edges to a short, shallow crack. KN gives it 5.7.

Poacher

Lizard

Prehistoric

Optimist SDS

Yield Sign

Single-Handed

Pessimist

Climb over the small overhang at the right-facing corner just right of Optimist using a painful finger lock. Ken Nichols gave this a sandbag 5.7. It could be 8+ maybe? When you get to the jug ledge, scramble to the top or off left as for Optimist.

Right-leaning finger crack midway between the arete and the Prehistoric corner. Decent climbing and protection.

Beautiful splitter finger crack in a corner. If only it were longer.

Sit start at a great upside down triangle hold under a bulge. Make a big move up and right to a good hold, then work up the shallow left-facing corner to jugs. When it gets ledgy scramble to the top or off to the left. 

  The original line was graded 5.9 X in Hooked on Traprock and started standing, as all good 10-foot tall trad free solos do.

Starting just right of a birch growing next to the face, climb straight up past some flakes. KN gives it 5.4.

Small right-facing corner to the right of Prehistoric.

Just north of the Fire Wall, the Metacomet Trail passes over a series of smaller cliffs. There is excellent rock here, though few crack systems. Two of these cliffs were included in Hooked on Traprock. However, there is also a third short cliff farther north without documented climbing. The southernmost cliff faces west and south with an obvious bottomless arete in the middle (Fat Finger Factor-5.10 R). About 100 feet to the north is a clean west-facing slabby face. The prominent arete on the southern end of this outcrop is Sneak Thief, 5.6 (no gear).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3 Trailside Rocks