bouldery move onto slab then thin face climbing (crux) to bomber flake up headwall.

Sugar Rush

More Nemo

Dory

Candy Corn

Cosmic Followers

Rock n Rolla

Nemo

Candy Land

Candy Man

right of candyman. climb easy but fun flake then thin face with cruxy moves.

This extension of "Nemo" is sport bolted 5.6 multi-pitch and it doesn't pretend to be more than that. That said, the upper slab has beautiful golden stone and is totally worthy for the grade and may deserve another star.

Perfect for the newbies to gain a little air and get an intro to multi-pitch with a 2 rappel descent to the base with one 60m rope.

1. Continue past Nemo anchor with a 5.6 mantle up and right then up the slab going hard left from the last bolt. 4 bolts to a bolted anchor at a nice stance on a huge block. If linked from the ground it is ~120' and you need 10 draws. You can also obviously stop at the Nemo anchors and then pitch this out as a short (~50') pitch if you want to practice your multi-pitch change-overs or don't have enough draws.

2. Up and left on the beautiful 5.6 golden slab with mostly easy ground and just enough spice. 4 bolts to a bolted anchor, 70'.

Rappel the route with one 60m rope, or if needed, scramble down the gully 3rd class to the North after going over the top.

One 60m does barely reach the ground on the second rappel from the More Nemo intermediate anchor at the Block Ledge. Be careful to be sure you match your ends and find the middle of your rope. Don't rap off the end.

A rare summit for Bowman and fun exposure.

This alternate pitch starts from the "More Nemo" mid anchors at Block Ledge and heads up and right up a beautiful slab. Cryptic sequences for the grade and lots of footwork on beautiful Bowman stone make this a worthy pitch. Sport bolted 5.6....Much Gnar! Sick Send! :D

1. Follow approach pitch 5.6 mantle above Candy Land/Nemo to the bolted anchor of "More Nemo" on the Block ledge. 4 bolts. If you take 10 draws you can link this with Nemo from the ground for one longer ~120' pitch.

2. Up and right (70', 6 bolts) to a bolted anchor with chains. 5.6 but more sustained and technical than "More Nemo".

Descent: 70' rappel to "More Nemo" anchor on Block Ledge. 100' rappel to base of Candy Land. One 60M rope barely reaches, be careful. If required (ie rain) you can scramble over the top and follow the gully 3rd class down (north) towards The Fun House or the base of the Gum Drop.

P1 - 5.9 - Follow the bolts up to the roof just right of Rock N Rolla, traverse to the ramp, then up the ramp to the anchors. From the anchors you can TR a fun 10d-ish variation through the middle of the roof.

P2 - 5.6 - Clip a draw in the chains on the first TR anchor and continue up into the saddle on top where there are a couple of hangers to build an anchor on. From there its 7 bolts to the top. Rap back down or scramble up and hike the gully down the back towards fun house wall.

Climb face to big corner system on right side of cliff. Continue out through corner/roof to face above to anchors.

Tricky face move from arch crack to face. Continue up fun edge climbing to anchors same anchors as Candy Land.

Climb face through small roof and up face to anchors.

Face climbing on good edges leads to a tricky move pulling roof, then thin face climbing up and left to anchors w/ a thin move past last bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Candy Land