This climb starts out with a bang. It would be three stars if the climbing didn't degrade after the crux.

P1: Traverse out a ledge and start cranking. Sequential finger jamming and sidepulls lead to a powerful bulge. Continue up easy 5.9 rock to a stance below the squeeze chimney.

P2: Climb the 5.8 squeeze on the left or the 5.9 dihedral on the right.  This pitch ends on the summit ridge, which has a 3rd class descent to the walk off.

Consumption of the Ages

Global Positioning

Personal Space Hammer

The first pitch on PSH is a gem. The slightly overhanging hand crack just right of the chimney system is your goal.

P1. Scramble up poorly protected (no gear) rock for 20 feet to engage the hand crack. Follow this through a few bulges to a stance below the squeeze on P2.

P2. Luckily there are two options for pitch 2. There is a squeeze chimney on the left (5.8) and a left-facing dihedral (5.9) on the right. The pitch ends on the summit ridge. The 5.9 pitch protects well with thin hand pieces, while the squeeze would require 6-8 inch gear.

There are great views of the north face of Sharksfin with the Diamond in the background on the summit ridge. Follow 3rd Class rock to an easy walk off.

This is pumpy and slightly overhanging route is very enjoyable. A light rack of cams is optional for the crux and recommended for the 5.10 variation.

The 5.11 crux is at the third bolt, which has ledge fall potential if you blow it.  A tiny TCU is helpful to reduce that chance.  A 5.10 bypass can be done to the right, which is protected by small cams.  A few long slings are also helpful to reduce drag.

You can lower with a 70m to the ground, and just barely rap with a 60m.  A few small cams should be placed on the way down to ensure that you can swing over to the ledge system at the start. Knots in the ends of your rope are recommended.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Rib Rock North, Upper Face