This stupendous steep face climb on dark gray varnish begins on a large platform at the base of a north facing rectangular block across from the Mary Worth Buttress. Balancy moves at the start lead to the first of five bolts. Sustained climbing gains the crux above the fifth bolt. A short hand crack past the crux ends at the top. Easily 3 out of 5 stars.

Silver Lining

Gumby Poindexter

Tubular Balls

Take It For Granite

Scramble up to the base and then launch up the left arete of the block with variable quality rock and interesting movement. Cuts right at the top to gain a bolted belay/rap station.

Might gain another star if the bolts were upgraded and the loose rock removed.

The climb consists of finger and hand jamming in a crack with a loose flake. Because of the loose flake, any protection that you place is not very reliable.

Technical thin/finger crack with jamming and liebacking off the ground to a crux midway up the first crack easing to hands, followed by a large flat ledge and an easier short yet steep arching finger crack to the top. The pro is not great at the crux, but you can get some small brass there. The second should be solid for this one; the traverse out of the first crack to the ledge sets up a good-sized pendulum fall. Pumpy for the rating.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Comic Strip - N Face