KILLER!!! Johnny's first route at The Shipyard is a dandy! Summon your inner MJ and jump to a giant edge to begin the route. Heel hook and bump up to establish yourself on the wall and continue climbing awesome jugs. Beware of the sting in the tail finish! An instant classic! Mandatory stick clip.

Too Tall for Twomey

Sweet Cream and Dopamine

Siren

Sagertooth Tiger

Huldra

Sea Sprite

Lizard Baby

Little Nemo

The Kraken

Tanner's Perpetual Motion Machine

Hydra

Hera

Shipyard Showers

Floch Ness Monster

This seemingly endless line is an endurance test piece. This shining white panel of dead vertical dolomite continues to test you all the way to the anchors. Expect easier movement low, and continuous hard sequences throughout the upper half on in-cut crimps, sidepulls and small pockets.

A 60M ROPE WILL NOT GET YOU DOWN.

Siren climbs a high-quality red streak of dolomite just left of the two blue streaks. This pitch is rather short, but features super fun, gymnastic movement off of beautifully sculpted holds. Expect a thin low crux, and a dynamic crux a little higher. It seems this line has been overlooked due to its proximity to the blue streaks, but the quality of movement is just as good!

This beautiful climb was another route developed by the late Terry Twomey. He had an eye for great lines, and it really shows in this route. Terry left some bolts heading up to the rim above the Siren anchors. As of recently, these don't go anywhere, but could be developed into a cherry mega pitch similar to Leviathan.

The crux of this route is right off the ground. The first 4 bolts consists of really fun, crimpy/bouldery, 5.11b climbing. After that, you go into monster ledges/holds for 4 bolts and then to some unique chert features! It can get a little pumpy up top, so utilize the rests.  If you're not a strong 11 climber you may want to stick clip the 1st or 2nd bolt.

In between Sea Sprite and Hydra, this temptress starts out with a committing move off the large flake and proceeds up the bolt line. If you're able to tame the crux and land on those juicy jug lines, traverse left and up to the finish.

Good holds and super cool movement on classic dolomite. Start on good pockets with bad feet, continue on interesting moves through good holds. Crux comes at 2/3rds height on positive crimps with a fun move into a small dihedral. Get after it, this ones fun!

Monos monos monos! Climb Shipyard style jugs for 60 ft with a few hard crimps thrown in for good measure. Rest, then quest up bouldery, fun moves through some very committing mono pulls. Lizard Baby ends at the break with clip and lower anchors.

Top bulge is the Lizard Queen project. After relaxing at the jug, cross high then boulder up and right. The crux comes when you throw at two half pad crimps. Quest up crosely rock to the finish. A beautiful, long line.

The first 7 bolts of this climb is a great 5.10 warmup for the area.

Little Nemo (named after the orange fish) climbs up the pocket band on a beautiful hunk of rock. Expect a cruxy start to long pulls on good holds. After pulling through a small overhang, hold on until the kick in the tail finish.

Dedicated to our friend and the man who envisioned/named this route, Terry Twomey (PINEY POP!).

Words can't describe what it feels like to awaken THE KRAKEN... Staring up at the beauty of this blue streak will transport you to the cliffs of Ceuse. She's not only pretty, but climbs amazingly well. Prepare for movement involving long dynamic pulls between sinker pockets and distinct rests after boulder problems. The flow stone provides quite a few options, but choosing correctly is key. Watch out sportos, the finish is tricky...

Be careful climbing this after rain or in the spring as it is a common rockfall zone. Don't hang out on the low trail right under the "chute". It also may need yearly brushing/pocket cleaning as the streak stays wet much of the spring.

A great line that starts on the best crimping at the Shipyard and finishes on a technical crux up high with a decent boulder problem. The position on the streak is incredible. Enjoy!

For our best friend, Tanner Schoonmaker. Climb forever Kevin!

Good pockets and box crimps lead up the center of the Mytho Wall. Crux is toward the end and involves crazy pockets that don't face the way you want them to. Pumpy fun climbing that is a good warm up for this area. When lowering your partner, clip into the bolt low on wall so you don't fly out into space!

Classic Shipyard pockets with an outstanding finish. Hera has become the most popular 5.11 in Piney Creek, and for good reason. The route has several cruxes, but is very accessible due to the large holds.

This route is a slight switch from the classic nature of climbing on this wall. Start on small pockets and crimps until you gain a big jug, then move right and up. Crimping, twisting, and technical body english lead you to a high crux.

The technical crux is at the start of the route, in between the 1st bolt and the 2nd bolt.  It's a bouldery start, but goes into great hands for clipping the 2nd bolt. If you're not super comfortable with climbing 11's you might want to clip the 2nd bolt.

The second crux is an endurance crux (this route is roughly 28 meters tall). After you pull the first crux use your rest spots wisely; you will find yourself getting pumped throughout the rest of the route, which is sustained 5.10d fun!

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Routes in 3. Mytho Wall