This route is probably as good as Zoo View on equally amazing rock.  It is definitely a step up in difficulty as well.  If you don't live in Winston-Salem or the Gunks, this might feel like 5.9...

Air Show

Break On Through

Zoo View

Sentinel Chimney

Connect-A-Crux

Bimbo's Bulge

Often forgotten climb, but enjoyable trek to the summit. Abundant protection. Good intro to trad multi-pitch at Moore's. Descent: Finish and hike over to rap bolts on Sentinel Buttress.

P1: Climb sentinel chimney to a big ledge.  The kind of wide crack right in front of your face is Air Show. It is easy to build a belay here with big nuts/tricams.

P2: From the belay climb right on horizontals until you hit a weird, quartzy crack/corner feature.  Blast up this . . . . it stays steep for quite a while.  When the angle eases, aim up and a little left towards a crack in the big roof.  Cutting feet when you stick the jug earns extra style points.  Continue up on easier ground but with a few more steep spots.

The term "classic" was made for routes like Zoo View. The Select Climbs guide calls this "possibly the best 5.7 in North Carolina;" in fact, it may very well be the best for the grade in the southeast. The wild exposure and the juggy roof make for an experience on lead that you won't soon forget. A trip to Moore's just to do this one superlative climb would not be a wasted one.

P1 -- Starting at the base of Sentinel Buttress, climb the first pitch of that route or any of the variations to get to the Crow's Nest ledge. 5.5, 80'

P2 -- From the left end of the Crow's Nest, make a tenuous and exposed traverse left, clipping a bolt; continue left to the base of a crack system (be sure to adequately protect the traverse for your second). Climb the crack up to an alcove/rest stance below an imposing roof; pull the roof on fantastic holds, then continue up a steep section to easier ground, topping out in the trees. Enjoy the view! 5.7+, 140'

To descend after you top out, scramble climber's right to the bolted rap station at the top of that climb and make two raps to the ground.

P1: Climb to the rap anchors on the crows nest.

P2: This pitch links up the Crux's of Zoo View, Break On Through, and Air Show. Start out the way you would for Zoo View. Head through the bolt and up the crack system for a bit. Leave the crack system and head left directly for the weakness in the roof on Break On Through. Keep pulling on jugs and trending left aiming for the open book second crux of Air Show. After the last crux head straight up make an anchor on top of the ledge.

Since the crux hold recently broke (in 2015?), the route went from 10c to probably more like 11b.

P1: Climb the first pitch of Sentinel Buttress.

P2: From the crows nest step up and left, aiming for a triangular roof. Careful, getting established under this roof is tricky. Yard over the overhang and get situated below the next one. Plug some bomber gear and make sure you look down at the 100+ feet of air below you after you ape out the roof.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Circus Wall