First half of the climb goes up a gully which starts on the left side of the western end of the bottom of Lost Peak. Second half is on a narrower ridge line. Route finding is pretty straightforward in both areas. When the gully widens at the top, staying to the right is a bit cleaner, but some dirt cannot be avoided through the short vegetated saddle above it. An easy ramp on the north side then leads to the ridge line proper where it narrows. Contrary to the advice given in Ingraham, we went to the north side of the "boulder" for a much lower exposure as well as easier climbing. Once past this, we roped up for our only pitch over the steeper step there. 

  The climbing is easy most of the time, which leads to a temptation to scramble, but I can see how roping up could be the preferred option. I know of a party which has done the top half of the climb in four pitches during winter. It does not have to be snow and ice, however. The technical moves, which are scattered throughout and may go over the 5.4 rating if you don't pick your route wisely, are in many cases hugely exposed. Add to that back-country conditions - loose blocks, some of them sizeable, nasty vegetation, etc. We were even forced to climb directly over an unhappy rattlesnake.

West Ridge

South Face

The South Face route up Lost peak takes a line of least resistance directly to the summit from the saddle between Lost Peak and the Wedge. The wall is steep enough to keep your attention, and even if the climbing isn't technical, avoiding loose rock and hidden cactus will keep you on your toes. 

  The route takes a low-angled ramp system up to about half-way up the face, above which is a right-facing corner. Stick to the corner, or stray out onto the face to the right.

Lost Peak is the minor summit just north of The Wedge. It's long and continuous west ridge bears similarities the the west ridge on its neighbor, but doesn't offer as spectacular climbing.  The summit is a good deal lower than the Wedge and extremely close; perhaps a single 60 m rope could be rigged to form a Tyrolean between the two summits, what a wild ride that would be! 

  As with any of the remote Organ peaks, be extremely careful about loose rock while attempting a summit bid. There is not enough traffic to really clean up any of the routes. Enjoy getting to the top of this "Lost" but not forgotten peak. And while your here, consider summiting Third Peak or the Wedge too.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lost Peak