Move up to the arete just left of Tin Man. Follow the bolts straight up  on thin features to TR anchors. Anything in the gully with the tree to the left is off.

Ruby Slippers

Scared Crow

Oz Slab

Oz Chimney

The Flying Monkey

Munchkin

Yellow Brick Road

The Man Behind the Curtain

Toto

Oz Boulder

Emerald City

Lollipop Gang

Commander Salamander Crack

Tin Man

Dorothy

Oil Can

Commander Salamander Slab

Start on the thin crack and move up to the first bolt. Grab for the rail and move up to the second bolt, follow the third bolt to the top.

This is a great slab climb. Move up the thin crack from the bottom to the blank face and follow the bolts straight up.

This is a great, hard, slab line.   

  Start on a thin flake system and follow the face up through thin edges and difficult smearing.  The crux is approximately halfway up moving through bad hands and worse feet.  The line seems to trend left slightly to a system of thin seams.   

  Someone has scrubbed the bottom a bit, but I recently cleaned this off and worked the lower section on top rope.  It is hard but seems doable in the 5.11 and up range.  The current condition of the rock does not help as the immediate surface is still a little friable and slippery after years under lichen.   It could use some heavy rain, another cleaning, and some sustained climbing.  It's a pretty cool line though and just needs a little love...if love is what you call it.

This is a great, little, chimney problem. Just step inside and wedge your way up. It is a little tougher if you have long legs.

Take the chimney right of Tin Man to the top. It's a little strange and takes a couple weird moves, but it is fun nonetheless. There are TR anchors at the top.

Move up the left arete of the middle section of Oz. There are TR anchors at the top.

Follow up the left-leaning crack at the far right end of the right face of Oz.

Follow up the center of the right face of Oz on cool features to a single bolt in the face. Top out the same as for Dorothy.

This is easy and fun boulder. I have never bothered to play on it myself, but I have seen many a chalky paw prints on this, so I figured it should be added.

Move up the left side of the face past a single blot toward the crack. Follow the crack to the top.

Move up the right arete of the midsection of Oz.

Layback the short, widening finger crack to the top.   

  I cleaned this off thinking it would be harder.   It would be decent if it were twice as big; otherwise, I am not sure I would recommend it. There may be another short climb to the left of this.

This is one of Cape Ann's best crack climbs! Start below the crack, it may look a bit moist, but it can be easily be gotten around without getting wet. Start out as if you were going to Ruby Slippers, but take the beautiful, obvious crack of Tin Man to the top.

Follow the right-leaning crack to the TR anchors at the top.

Move up the center past a broken bolt on the midsection of Oz. The crux is getting of the ground. There are TR anchors at the top.

Start with the good hold with your right hand. Work your feet up until you can match your foot to your hand and stand up. The rest involves a bit of slabby levitation using a few thin features to the top.

Oz is a great sport and trad area of Redrocks. Only 30 feet tall, it is short but sweet for slab and crack climbs. Also, it is a great alternative for when main crag is end to end with TRs. It is pretty shady here, but most of the rock dries pretty quick. TR anchors present fall of 2011. 

  There are also some awesome boulder problems that run across the top of this crag. Follow the trail marked with tape either from the left side of auntie em, or from the right side of the crag starting at oz boulder. 

Oz

  L->R: 

  Left Face   A. Commander Salamander Slab, 9, 1p, 25', TR.   B. Commander Salamander Crack, 6, 1p, 20', gear or TR.   C. Oz Slab, 11, 1p, 30', TR.   D. Emerald City, 7 PG-13, 1p, 25', bolt/gear.   E. Scarecrow, 9, 1p, 25', bolts.   F. Yellow Brick Road, 8+, 1p, 25', bolts.   G1. Ruby Slippers, 10+, 1[, 25', bolts.   G2. Tin Man, 8, 1p, 25', gear or TR.   H. Flying Monkey, 6, 1p, 20', bolts. 

  Center Arete 

  I. Munchkin, 9, 1p, 15', TR.   J. Oil Can, 11, 1p, 15', gear or TR.   K. Lollipop Gang, 8, 1p, 15', TR. 

  Right face   L. Dorothy, 6, 1p, 15', gear or TR.   M. Toto, 8, 1p, 20', gear and bolt.   N. Man Behind the Curtain, 6, 1p, 20', gear. 

  O. Oz Chimney, V0, 10'. 

  P. Oz Boulder, V1, 8'. 

  Close by to the north is the Down Under area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Oz