Easy Twin Right

Coffin Crack

Easy twin Left

S Crack

Unknown

Old Twelve

Don't fence me in

Twin Cracks

Unnecessary Fisting

Fence Post Direct

Annihilator

Unknown Crack

Sully's Gully

A fun fingers and thin hands crack in a a slight dihedral.  Excellent crack for the beginning leader because protection opportunities are plentiful.  (Note that this climb is rated 5.5 in the Prescott Climbing Guide.  I used that rating to preserve the intent of whoever first climbed it.  However, i’d say it’s closer to 5.7)

Jam up slick start and climb into large coffin-sized pod. Then overcome the pod (crux) and climb the handcrack to the top. Like many routes here, there is occasionally water at the bottom of this route.

Getting off the deck is the hardest part. The crux is in the first four or five moves, or if you are super tall like me, it's the first move. It is a truly classic climb for the area.

Face climb with a slick bottom moves into a steep, thin and reachy upper section. Start about ten feet right of the Twin Cracks and three feet right of the Annihilator.

This crack is just left of Fence Post Direct.  Mostly finger sized, with some cool little pockets.  You can exit straight up, or you can make a move to the right at the upper horizontal crack, and finish in the right crack.  Both about the same difficulty.  Very fun!  Tricky to set up as a top rope.

Twin Cracks is a wonderful hand crack. The crux is in the middle of the climb, where the left crack gets a little wide. It's another classic climb in at Upper Sullies. I really like this climb, it was my first crack climb. And was the start of an addiction to crack climbing.

Slick route with a cool wide crack crux. If you feel like fist jamming or hand stacking at the obvious crux, think again. Easier for those who are taller.

Excellent climbing up a continuous crack. Fists or stacks down low narrowing to hands. Like many climbs in this area, the crux is at the start.

Good hands and slick feet off the deck, a few slightly wider sections along the way, but pretty good jams or stemming all the way up.

Climb up into a slick, secure chimney. Crux is exiting the chimney with a bomber fist/hand jam. Search for the key foothold to make your exit easier. Then climb the easy #4 size crack to the top (OW technique optional).

Technical and steep start with smoe good moves down low.  Moving up the hand jams get better up to a bomber fist jam to finish things off.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Sullie’s South Side