This is the left of two sport routes on this formation. It has an easy start, past one bolt, then goes up steep rock to the top past 4 more bolts to an anchor.

The Chick Magnet

Funky Fresh

Starrbonne

The Hammer

The Neenee

Holly Hipkiss

Angel's Desire

Alien Head

Horney Goat Weed

This climb ascends the southwest face of a small mini-spire formation on the hillside across and east of the Rattlesnake parking lot.  It is located relatively low on the hillside and can be reached in about 10 minutes or so from the parking area. 1.32578 stars out of five.

This climb ascents the right side of a scrappy formation which is seen due east of the Rattlesnake parking lot, at the end of the gulley. It is easily seen from the parking lot, and faces the parking lot (west). Climb up friable mini-knobs to a steep finish on (finally) better rock. Fun enough climbing, good protection on mostly poor rock.

This route faces the Rattlesnake Parking lot and is high on the hill to the east. It is on a steep slab below another formation with a crack in it.  The route Starrbonne follows a faint dike or weakness, going slightly up and to the right. When you get to the top, there are anchors on a wall behind the formation for this climb.  Maybe 4 bolts.

This route is on the right side of a large boulder directly east and up the hill out of Rattlesnake Canyon.  It faces south, so from the parking lot, a climber could be seen in profile on this climb.  It is just right of an unknown climb (or project?) which has 3 bolts on an overhanging face.  This climb is also on the boulder above the face climb Starrbonne (5.8)

This route is about 100 yards to the right of Holly Hipkiss/Chick Magnet climbs.  It is located on a buttress/pillar, which is just to the right of an unknown difficult looking bolted face climb. The climb starts with a steep and strenous move or two and then climbs up the buttress to anchors on the top of the pillar.

On the largest south-facing crag on the hillside there are 2 bolted lines....the left one goes more or less straight up, and the right traverses a bit (right to left) on a dike weakness; Holly Hipkiss is the right route on the dike. A steep start on big holds leads up the weakness past bolts to an anchor.

Angel's Desire is on a smallish spire/boulder that faces south, and is on the hillside directly east of the Rattlesnake parking lot. It is about 20 yards past

The Neenee

. Can easily be set up as a top rope. The climbing is on flakes and odd/cool tiny square mini-knobs, which are found on many of the routes in this area of Rattlesnake, but really nowhere else in the Park.

This excellent , but short crack climb ascends the right to left traversing crack on the formation above the climb Starrbonne.  The climb starts out hands, and as it gets wider, it turns to a rail, with a "big" finish.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Alien Head Area