Climbs the juggy dike to a lieback/undercling flake then a few thin face moves before the final slab.

Girls in the Middle

Lesbos in Love

Guys and Dolls

Start in the gully, clip the first bolt and get on the face to the left.  Work up to the horizontal and follow it to the left.  The crux comes while transitioning from the horizontal to the middle face.  Continue up past a second horizontal, work the upper face on its left side and finish at chain anchors.  Although not sustained at grade, this route has several spicy sections and will keep you on your toes.  Rappel to descend.

Start in the gully and scramble to its end at the negative wall with the obvious dike above.  The crux is an awkward move to get established on the headwall.  Taller climbers will find this move quite easy.  Follow the dike up the right side of the wall.  A secondary crux is found transitioning from the dike to the upper wall.  This can be done either to the right or the left of the bolt.  Continue up the right side of the upper wall to chain anchors.  Rappel to descend.

Note: the prominent middle block of the dike is very loose.  As this piece of rock is quite large, try to climb without using it and make sure your belayer wears a helmet.  Avoiding this block does not make the route more difficult, just more interesting.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Voodoo Pin