WARNING: Some routes on this wall are just long enough to lower your partner with a 60 meter rope. Mind your positioning as belayer (stand close to the wall) and TIE A STOPPER KNOT to avoid the end of the rope slipping through the belay device and dropping your partner as they lower to the bottom. 

  The rock here is mostly good, but are a few loose blocks; test holds before trusting them and yell "ROCK" "like someone's gonna die" if anything comes down. Even quarter size rocks seem like they've come out of a slingshot when they fall off Village Wall because of its length and angle. 

  Juggy vertical start with plenty of hold options. Then "hike" over somewhat dirty low angle section to dead vertical 5.8+ crux with solid holds--nicely protected and a fun lead. Good technique will make it feel easier; thrutching can make it a bit awkward or exhausting. Finish at mussy hooks. Lower off.

Pillage the Village

Village Idiot

Disco Cowboy

Bridge Tender

Village People

Be careful of rope snag while descending this route. See below.

 Vertical start with good holds (5.6 or 5.7). Then about 10' run out of 5.5 to mussy hooks for anchors. Good idea to establish name use when calling "take" if you have neighboring climbers here to avoid confusion and possibly a fall.

 It's convenient for the next leader to start at the Left side of the first anchor. Follow bolts up low angle and somewhat dirty second pitch (5.5) to mussy hooks for anchors.

 The rock above the second set of anchors is loose and a hazard to climb as holds can break and rock fall can injure or kill people below.

 Rappel down. Going up is the easy part. Coil and throw rope out to avoid snags on the low angle second pitch.

CAUTION: Be picky about finding the midpoint of the rope and TIE STOPPER KNOTS to rappel, the second pitch is almost exactly long enough to rappel down a 60 meter rope.

 Find the least featured, most straightforward and vertical way to rappel down the first pitch (about 10 feet Right of the start) to avoid snagging the rope when you pull it.

WARNING: This route is just long enough to lower your partner with a 60 meter rope. Mind your positioning as belayer (stand close to the wall) and TIE A STOPPER KNOT to avoid the end of the rope slipping through the belay device and dropping your partner as they lower near the bottom. 

  The rock here is mostly good, but are a few loose blocks; test holds before trusting them and yell "ROCK" "like someone's gonna die" if anything comes down. Even quarter size rocks seem like they've come out of a slingshot when they fall off Village Wall because of its length and angle.  

  Easiest climb on this wall. Starts vertical but miraculously juggy. Transitions to a somewhat dirty 5.5 "hike," then comes up a more interesting, generously protected face climb. Stay on the face, follow the bolt line, and look for your next move for a fun and easy line; straying Left at the crux provides an easier, less exciting variation to the finish. Lower off.

WARNING: This route is just long enough to lower your partner with a 60 meter rope. Mind your positioning as belayer (stand close to the wall) and TIE A STOPPER KNOT to avoid the end of the rope slipping through the belay device and dropping your partner as they lower near the bottom.

 The rock here is mostly good, but are a few loose blocks; test holds before trusting them and yell "ROCK" "like someone's gonna die" if anything comes down. Even quarter size rocks seem like they've come out of a slingshot when they fall off Village Wall because of its length and angle. 

 Start by straddling a small cave, heading straight up and keeping on the steepest path over a few small bulges and ledges. The route continues to steepen where there is lighter colored rock. After a large bench, follow bolt line for ~5.8. Routes eases up at least a grade by going right or left. Keep left after the last bolt to avoid loose rock. The final few moves are the most fun.

Mostly vertical. Great holds. Short and sweet. Lower off.

WARNING: These routes are almost precisely 30 meters and can be climbed with a 60 meter rope, but TIE A STOPPER KNOT and mind your positioning (stand close to the wall) as you lower the climber to the ground as a precaution so as to not run the end of the rope through the belay device! 

  The rock here is mostly good, but are a few loose blocks; test holds before trusting them and yell "ROCK" "like someone's gonna die" if anything comes down. Even quarter size rocks seem like they've come out of a slingshot when they fall off Village Wall because of its length and angle. 

  You find Village Wall as you approach the larger "main crag." Sunny on the rock and shaded by trees at the base. Routes start vertical but with juggy holds, continue at a low angle (that is uncompromisingly well protected), and usually end high on a vertical finish. There is a great beginner's multipitch here (Village People: 5.6 at the 1st pitch and 5.5 at the 2nd).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Village Wall