P1 - Climb the nice face just left of the small corner past an old, bent pin, then move up and right to an overhang.  Clear the overhang at a notch, then follow a groove to a small ledge with old pitons and the original belay.  Traverse left around a corner to a better belay (#2 Camalot). 

  P2 - Traverse way right under the overhang to a left-facing corner and bypass the overhang using awkward moves.  Follow a dirty crack up and left to the top. 

  Can be done in one pitch and this avoids the odd belay position.  Long slings or double ropes helpful.

Cramped Thumb

Loose Block Direct

Blockhead

Higher Than I

Loose Block

Cramped Thumb Direct

Shalestorm

Director Overhang

P1 - Climb the corner to the ledge 12 feet up as for Loose Block. Climb the steep face of the left-facing corner above, passing much friable rock to a ledge below the ceiling (or climb Loose Block to this point, better and safer with better rock). Continue through the overhang and follow 4 bolts up the face to a large belay ledge with a tree (same as Loose Block Direct and Blockhead). 

  P2 - Climb the short face past a piton to the top.

P1 - Start as for Loose Block, climbing the corner to a ledge 12 feet up.  Continue up the corner to a large belay ledge. 

  P2 - Continue up the corner to another ledge with a tree.  Climb a short face behind the tree past a piton to the top.

P1 - Climb the corner to the ledge 12 feet up as for Loose Block.  Continue in the main corner until you can step right to a large ledge (optional belay).  Climb the steep dihedral to a ledge with a cedar tree (same as for Loose Block Direct). 

  P2 - (Same as Loose Block Direct).  Climb a short face past the piton to the top.

Dirty and uninspiring, even by Stover Standards.   P1 - Climb the cracks to a dirty ledge.  Walk left about 25 feet to a belay tree at the right edge of the Cramped Thumb face. 

  P2 - Climb the left-facing corner directly behind the tree to the ceiling.  Clear the ceiling (old piton above) and continue up the grungy face to the top.

Climb the broken corner to gain a ledge 12 feet up.  Continue up the corner and crack (crux) to a stance.  Angle up and left following the easiest path to the summit.

Follow Cramped Thumb to the first overhang and notch just below the original belay.  Veer up and right to a notch in the next overhang (right of the notch for Director Overhang) with numerous pitons.  Clear the overhang at the notch and climb the steep exposed face festooned with pitons.

Follow Cramped Thumb to the narrow ledge with pitons (original belay for Cramped Thumb).  Climb straight up from there to the overhang and clear it at an obvious notch.

The Cramped Face is the tall expanse of rock just right of the Tango Face, marked by a small ceiling near the top and bounded on the right by a broken flake/left-facing corner that arches into the aforementioned ceiling.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in f. Cramped Face