Obvious overhanging finger crack line on the east side of the boulder. Move up to a horn (tread lightly!) and edges to finish at the small tree.  

  The usual start is with both hands in the horizontal but you can do a sit start in the low corner to the right and traverse into it for added pump, or do the traverse all the way from the left for extreme pump (undone)

Wall Flower

Stop Stepping on My Feet V4

Down Climb

Cheating @ Solitaire

Hold My Beer

Center Slab

Water Chute

Safety Dance

Warm-Up Crack

Pants Off Dance Off Arete - left

100 Years of Behind the Boulder

Pants Off Dance Off Arete - Right

On the overhanging face start left of the crack of Wallflower, between it and the arete to the left with both hands on the horizontal and feet pasted. Using the flake edge just above the horizontal, a high left foot in the crack and bumps in the shallow smiley face pocket above, rock up and pop the left to the stairstep shaped ledge (there is often a bird's nest here so avoid if they are nesting) Match up and do another rockover mantle into a high left reach to a good edge with a jug above. It is a little contrived (- a star), but top out straight above, to the left of the crack

On the front face start with hands in the horizontal crack below the vertical seam. Do a tricky move to get established in the seam with your feet in the horizontal than shuffle your feet a little left until you can get your toe in the quartz pocket. Use some very thin edges and balance to angle up left a little and gain a good edge in an angling seam (staying right of the arete) then top out. 

  Staying with the vertical seam and topping out straight up as first envisioned is a little contrived but will possibly go at a considerably higher grade.

Northwest corner is the easiest way down.

Right of the Pants Off arete is another, more blunt one. Start off underclings and fire up to a rounded jug, traverse left across the steep slab through sharp crystals and a crack to finish on the Pants Off arete.  

  Basically a consolation prize for not being able to finish the crack directly.

Start in the center of the slab in the horizontal crack. Go up to edges and a fun top out. A fun link up connect this prob with Water Chute by way of a cool two finger pocket.

First route left of the Pants off Arete. Look for the dark water runnel and climb up to it from the easy scoop on the right, or a direct start to add a few moves from the horizontal crack.

Eight feet right of Pants Off arete, start at the blunt prow on two underclings. Fire up to rounder sloper and traverse right into Wall Flower to topout at the tree.

Left side of the slab on the back side of the boulder, just right of a little tree growing out of the boulder is a short broken crack/flake. Starting as low as reasonable, head up the crack and finish as desired, either bailing off to the left, pulling the little roof up and a little to the right (slopey topout) or traverse right into the shallow corner of 100 Years.. and top out.

The southern arete on the boulder can be climbed on both the left and right sides. The left side starts off the easy scoop  and lays off the arete to the left to a nice topout.

On the left of the slab move up from a bread loaf feature straight up the flake in the shallow open corner. It is possible to escape left to an earlier top out.

The right hand version of the arete. It climbs completely different than the left and is a little more committing and difficult. Right side of the arete, start with the right hand in a quartz pocket, left in a little seam. Slap and pinch your way up the arete and use a couple edges on the face up high keeping you body on the right side of the arete. Slightly contrived in that there is a point in the middle where you could go around the arete to the easier left hand version, but it climbs naturally. A couple crouch/sit start variations can be done to increase the difficulty, but they are sort of awkward and grunty.

The centerpiece of the area, a prominent tall boulder with an overhang on the east side and a slab to the west. We thought the building where you park was the old dance hall so misnamed the boulder. It turns out it was not and is only a foundation further to the north now.

Description

Protection

Routes in Dance Hall Boulder