Thoughtful moves. 

  Up the face, without using handholds on the crack to the left of the arete to the right. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Stealth Entry

Face It

Cramping-Up

VOSD

Monkey Chimney

Orangutan Arete

Monkey Boat

Bonobo Play

Chimp Crack

Robbing the Jewelry Store

Monkey Gully

U Name it Pete

Originally done as a bouldering problem. 

  Climb the crack in the middle of the face which is to the left of the roof. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Fun moves.   Originally done as a bouldering problem. 

  Climb up the face under the roof, then up through the roof on its right side. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Tricky start and crux, then easier.   Originally done as a bouldering problem. 

  Climb directly up the arete just left of the roof.   . Variation (5.9): start on the left side of the arete, borrowing holds from the route Stealth Entry. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Interesting moves. 

  Start up the crack on the corner. But then instead of continuing up the obvious crack above, traverse left to a left-trending weakness and up that to the top. 

  name: Valley of the Shadow of Death  

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Fun moves in the upper section -- too bad it's not longer. 

  Scramble up into the chimney. In upper half use holds on both sides. Finish to top on left side.   . (Variation: Use holds only on left side, and don't tough the tree - 5.7+) 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

If arete moves are what you want, this is it. If you're not sure arete moves are your thing, try this one. 

  Start on the right side of the arete / outside corner which forms the left side of the obvious chimney / gully. Go up it all the way to the top (using the crack of "Pure Shadow" just to its left is OK, but stay definitely all on the right side of that crack). 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Start on left, then right around corner, and up.

Variety of thoughtful moves. Tricky Crux -- the rest is significantly less difficult (but still interesting). 

  Up the right side of the gully (with left-slanting crack) to just below the right side of the tree. Step wide (crux) onto the face to right of gully, and up that face to the top. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Nice crack moves. 

  Start up the crack on the corner, and continue up the obvious crack above.    . (Climbing on the crack or to its left side is good, but climbing on its right side is a different route).  

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Fun moves.   Originally done as a bouldering problem. 

  Climb up the right-facing corner, then up through the left side of the roof. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Originally done as a bouldering problem. 

  Up the left side of the gully, passing on left side of tree. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Is it a bouldering zone or a fun top-roping sector? You decide. Anyway ... 

  This is the place to hang out over around the Monkey Boat. The routes are short, but with lots of fun monkey-moves packed in -- and the lines are so close together you can top-rope several of them from the same tree anchor. 

  . (If sometime you're visiting the Eastside Sierras of California for all kinds of great climbing (or skiing, or biking, or hiking or backpacking), you can also climb at the other Monkey Bar -- indoor bouldering refuge at Mammoth Lakes California -- offered by the excellent shop Mammoth Mountaineering Supply ). 

Top-Roping: To access top of cliff to set up top anchor, scramble around left (west) side of left section of this sector (so left of the route "U Name it Pete"). 

  Or perhaps easier to start way right (east), even past the whole Dragon slab, then scramble up around the left side of the Beard boulder, then across the top of The Nose and Dragon sectors to reach the top of the Monkey Bar sector.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 2.1 Monkey Bar