Twilight Pillar is a great route on a outstanding peak with no easy route to the top. We climbed the route in late May with lots of snow around.

We gained the ridge directly below the start of the Firebird Ridge. From that point we traversed below the major snow field left on to the bottom portion of the Twilight Pillar and followed the lower ridge (5th class) to a nice ledge below the upper headwall. From the ledge there are 5 or 6 great pitches up to 5.8 that take you to the summit.

Twilight Pillar

North-Northeast Ridge

Firebird Ridge

Hike up the canyon from Finger Lake towards Norman Clyde Peak. Then, before the glacier, slabs to the right to gain the crest of the long NNE ridge running down from the peak.

The route does not follow the ridge directly - this is Firebird Ridge (IV 5.9) a different proposition.

Cross onto the north face where the ridge begins to steepen and take the path of least resistance up this face about 50/200 feet to the right of the main ridge until the crest of the summit ridge is reached. Scramble to the summit.

Descend the route.

An aesthetic ridgeline with high-quality rock. Hidden gem of Sierra ridge climbs!

Route begins at a notch just above an upside-down boot shaped rock poking up along the ridge. Follow the ridge to the sub-summit of Norman Clyde Peak. Stay directly on the ridge for the best and most sustained climbing. Rock is generally cleaner and less chossy on the east of the ridge; most difficulties are bypassed on the west (climber's right) of the ridge. Climbing becomes easier and less sustained in the upper pitches.

Traverse east along the summit ridge to reach the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Norman Clyde Peak