Such a fun route and is often overshadowed by it's 4 star neighbor. Start up the chimney and clip a bolt then move out to the face and up to a small roof.

Tworgasaminimum

Verde Suave

Take me to the River

Reaches From Hell

Masterpiece Theatre

Dreams of White Horsts

Sangre Verde

Verde Bunyan

Stellar Idea

Feng Shui

So Freakin' Fun

China Crisis

All Things Considered

Skinhead Grin

Coughing up Fleming

Put Up or Shut Up

Skinhead Sin

Little Creatures

The Great White Shark

Hubba Bubba

Clean, wide, well bolted chimney great for practicing chimney technique.

Start up broken rock below the left crack.  Pull a little boulder problem that may be hard for short climbers to get into the nice clean hand to finger crack in the narrow corner.  Climb this to a ledge and then route find your way up the slab with tricky gear and some very insecure feet.  This is a good climb that deserves more traffic.

Climb the first three bolts of Skinhead Grin and traverse to the left bolt line. All I will say is the name is fairly accurate, but the true reach from hell will probably come where you least expect it. Not a gimme. Enjoy!

Masterpiece Theatre is artsy and thoughtful the entire way with just the right amount of burly moves to get your adrenaline going.  Although the steep beginning section looks the most intimidating, the true difficulties are found above on the slopey headwall.  A good strategy for maximizing enjoyment on this route is to either top rope it off of So Freakin Fun, or at the very least lower down the route, give it a good scrubbing, tick some holds and hang all the draws before giving it a good effort.

Begin by scrambling to the top of a pile of choss.  Stick clip either the first or second draw.  Launch into a series of grippy crimps that take you to some nice jugs at the lip.  A long draw on the third bolt may save you some hassle.  Next, move sequentially to the right being sure to keep your balance as you set up for the technical crux.  Long arms and legs are a great asset to have for this crux.  Move beyond the crux through some easier face climbing.  There is a no hands ledge right before the redpoint crux.  When fully rested move rightward through some crimps to a surprisingly dynamic finish.

Originally graded 13a due to bad beta. If you find good beta at the crux this route is around 12c. An amazing climb and one to try. Shares the anchors with Hubba Bubba 5.9.

Start in the small right-facing corner and follow it to a roof. Pull over and climb the crack past a little tree then trend up and left to shared anchors above

Verde Bunyan 5.10c

The guidebook describes this route as a "technical face climb" which is a pretty accurate description. Good moves, lots of fun. Fair grade.

This route stays dry in a light rain as it is protected by a large overhang above.   Climb up broken rock to reach the first bolt at a thin seam.  At the second bolt, head left and up to reach a horizontal.  At the horizontal, traverse a bit left to reach a shallow left facing corner.  Clip the 4th bolt, and make a few reaches to gain the bomber holds below the shuts.

This is a great line just around the arete to the right of Skinhead Grin. Start with steep dynamic pulling between flat blocky holds to a slight bulge/roof where you must make a huge 3 foot dyno off of some nice incut crimps to a giant hueco (probably 5.11+ to here). After this you have another pumpy 5.11a section for about another 20 feet or so wandering through some horizontal crimpy rails at which point you can shake out before heading left onto the arete. Once on the arete you have a no hands rest and need to perform about a V3/4 slab sequence (8 feet) with horrible feet to make it to the anchor. This final section is very cryptic so don't get frustrated (like I did) - just examine the possibilities.

Start from the ledge and clip the shared first bolt with Incredarete. Stem and chimney up the giant crack for a few bolts until you can pull left onto the face. Take care not to climb too far up the chimney or you will find yourself stranded. Arc up and left on the face to clip the last bolt and anchors of Masterpiece Theatre. The name says it all.

40 feet off-width crack to the right of Hubba Bubba.

This route could possibly gain another star if it saw more traffic and cleaned up a bit.  The moves are interesting and the rock on the upper portion is great.  Start by climbing up dirty broken rock to reach the first bolt.  From here, climb up and get established on the face at the 2nd bolt.  Make a few thin slabby moves to reach a jug at the 3rd bolt (crux).  Continue up to a ledge and then follow the perfect white arete to the top.

This is a great route, and deserves more traffic.  It can be a bit dirty in parts, but the climbing is interesting and exciting.   Climb up easy rock to reach the 3rd bolt.  From here, head up and right over a big hole to reach the jugs in the overhang.  Pull this first overhang and follow a crack system to the last bolt (crux).  From here, keep it together and carefully proceed for another 20 ft to the anchors.  You'll go pretty far above the last bolt, but the climbing is much easier above the last bolt.

This route tends to stay dry in a light rain.   Start on broken rock, same start as Stellar Idea, 5.11b.  At the ledge, step right and climb out the overhang using a few slopping holds in a series and slap your way to a jug.  Cool bouldery moves!.   From here, head up and left on easier ground to reach the 4th bolt.   Climb up the very thin and smooth rock to the anchors.

Easy starting section that leads to the crux (roof pull). After the roof pull, find yourself with a good rest while avoiding the tree limbs. Head up and left on the walls chossy face to finish.

Share the first moves with Skinhead Grin but clip the bolt out right. Mantel up onto a ledge then climb steepening rock up and right to a tricky crux on the face just shy of the anchors. This route is more fun than stomping hippies.

This route climbs better than it looks. A four star in the guidebook. Great face and crack climbing.  Follow a left leaning crack toward an arete.  Traverse right under a roof until you are beneath two thin seams.  Pull the roof and head straight up to bolted anchors on top.

There actually was a little creature hiding in a large pocket midway up the route.  Watch your fingers!

Climb crumbly rock towards the massive roof crack. Climb efficiently to the lip of the roof. Find some hidden holds out on the bulge of the roof and thrutch to the jugs.

If you are searching for a good bolted moderate, this one is worth coming to the Head Wall to do.  Climb up a crack and make a long traverse left along a horizontal crack to reach the white arete (crux).  When doing the traverse, you can take the high road or the low road, without changing the grade.   At the arete, climb up and gain a stance on the left side.   Climb up the left side of the arete to reach the anchors.

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Protection

Routes in 06. Head Wall