Start matched on an obvious edge just to the right and slightly above the start holds for ‘Crimp Roof’ with good feet. Move straight up on small, sharp crimps, gaining the horizontal and an easy topout after a few moves.

Universal Problem

Loadies Nightmare

Crimp Roof

Fish Crack

The Whole Enchilada

Loadies Dream

Beginners Delight

Iron Cross

The Great Thanksgiving Smoke Out Massacre

Gillette Razors

Dream On

Super Slab

Iron Cross Crack

Face to Face

Iron Cross Sit Start

Off the Couch

Start sitting at obvious small roof on right side of the wall.  Climb up to sharp holds into the horizontal.  Continue straight up.

Sames as for Loadies Dream except instead of finishing up the Fish Crack keep traversing left across face to very end of the wall.

Sit start on the left end of the overhang on large rail.  Move up into the crack and top out using the slopey crack/jug.

Combine Dream On (staying low after tree) with Loadies Nightmare (traversing left after the fish crack) and you have the Whole Enchilada.

Start on far right side, traverse left across the face, staying  low until the arete. At arete (in front of tree) move up into crack made by the big flake. Go across to start hold of Iron Cross and finish up as for Iron Cross and topping out on Fish Crack. This was an early endurance test piece. Holds have since broken at the arete, making it a little less interesting. Lots of variations and extensions have since been done that bump the grade up some.

Climb the crack in the middle of the right face.  Add the sit start for V2

The left side of the ledge is overhanging. At the right edge of the steepness is a big arching flake. Left of the flake is a big horny jug.  Start standing (or jumping to) the jug and do a big iron cross out left and continue traversing left on crimps. Finish up on Fish Crack at the end of the face and top out on the sloper jug.     - originally this was done by starting up the big flake, which significantly adds to the pump, though most do the shortened version now or go all the way for Loadies Dream

 

Basically the reverse of Iron Cross.  Start as for Fish Crack  on the far left.  Traverse right through the clam shell hold and up after you hit the iron cross rail.

Start to the left of crimp roof on a sharp crimp and rightward facing sloping gaston. Bump up left hand to a decent sloper and then make a right hand reach up and left to a good but sharp edge. Top out on jugs.

Same as for Loadies Dream except at the arete in front of the tree stay low into undercling then move out of undercling to the start hold of Iron Cross.  Finish up on Iron Cross.

Start on a long edge at 6 ft and climb the face right of the crack of Beginner's Delight.

Start standing below the large flake between the 2 faces. Angle up the crack left and traverse on jugs then top out.

Sit start on a large jug/big shelf left of the crack of Beginner's Delight. Climb up flakes left of the crack to decent holds and top out. 

  Cool variation/additional description:  Start matching on the huge flake with huge footholds. (Same as Iron Cross Sit) Move right into big shelf keeping the good feet. Right hand up into a small and deep side crimp. High left foot at the start and gain an awesome left hand pinch. Get a high right foot (crux) and find the good right hand pocket. Top out straight up.

Sit start by the tree to the right of the Iron Cross Crack on the large oval jug flake. Make the first few finger locks to establish on the undercling underneath the Iron Cross Crack flake.  

  Pull the crux through the obvious right facing sidepull on the face of the Iron Cross Crack flake to get to the start of Iron Cross. Finish as for Iron Cross.  

  Crux Tip: point your index finger like a gun as you grab the sidepull with the  sharp spike between your middle and ring fingers, then curl your index so that it crimps the top of the hold. 

Sit Start on 2 small crimps in the middle of the overhanging face. Stand up using bad feet to the pocket.  Top using a crimp intermediate or going big for a jug.

Right at the top of the approach trail.  Large face on the right side and short, steeper wall on the left. V0-V9

Description

Location

Routes in Iron Cross Boulder