Crank up the crack on the Northwest face.

Well worth the hike for a good tick and a nice view.

Devastator Tower

Belfry Tower.  Hells Bells.

Ozymandias

Live Free or Die Tower

The Rooster

Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell.

Little Weasel Spire

The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer

Horus Tower

Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry

The blocky Sodizin(Indian name for a church)Tower is located at the far eastern end of the Weasel formation.  The route climbs a corner system facing southeast.

P1) Start in a right facing corner with a wide and a slim crack that parallel each other.  Follow the cracks to a short bolt ladder, and then up a  wall and groove to a big ledge and natural belays. 100' 5.9 C1.

P2) Climb the 15' flake on the left.  Step off this to the left then back right past two bolts, then continue to the col just left of the summit. 70' 5.9 A0. (Rap anchors on right)

P3) Short 30' pitch to the summit and a register.

Descent: 170' rap from the col.  FA Paul Ross, Andy Ross (Alt leads), and Layne Potter.

The route climbs the south face of Belfry Tower.  See photo of tower on the Brits in the Belfry route.

P1) The first pitch follows a good crack system to the top of the pillar down left of the summit. The crack goes over a short roof at about 30'. Follow cracks and grooves past a couple of blocks(2 bolts) to a perfect 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" finishing crack. 160' 5.9 C1. The second followed this pitch free at about 5.11+ apart from a short wide section above the first overhang.

P2) A short easy pitch to a ledge at 35'.

P3) Move down left and then back right to a crack that leads to belays below an overhanging 5" crack. 60' 5.8.

P4) Aid the awkward crack for about 25' and then easier climbing leads  into the belfry. 50' 5.6 C1.

P5) Climb the short sqeeze chimney on the north side. 30' 5.7 (this is last section of pitch 3 of Brits in the Belfry).

Descent: Rap down Brits in the Belfry.

FA: Paul Ross, Andy Ross.(var leads), and Layne Potter

Ozymandias takes a very direct line up the south face to one of the unclimbed summits of The Weasel.  It is a demanding and committing route up an impressive face.  After the overhanging crack on pitch 3 retreat would be difficult.  It starts on the right(east) and behind an 80' detached pinnacle at the foot of a line of cracks and grooves in the centre of the face.

P1) A perfect crack using small to medium cams leads past a roof and right into a groove.  Follow to anchors on top of a large flake.  100' C1 5.8.

P2) Climb the groove above, mostly a thin crack is climbed to near its top to a bolt.  Move left to a small ledge, and then easy climbing to anchors in an alcove below the obvious overhanging crack. 70' C2 5.7.

P3) The crack is mostly 1.5 to 2 cams with some large near the top. Continue over the lip for about 20' to anchors 65' C2 5.8.

P4) Climb the groove and awkward placements past one bolt to anchors at the entrance to a chimney.  65' C2 5.8.

P5) Go up the chimney and then right onto the top of a pillar.  One bolt up a short overhanging wall to natural belays.  60' C1 5.6.

P6) Easy climbing to the summit. 80' 5.4. The register is in cairn on the right hand summit.

F.A. Andy Ross Paul Ross (Alt Leads) May 3 2004

Descent: It would unwise to attempt to rap back down the route.  From the top of the route go about 40' west to rap anchors.  Do a short 50' rap to the shoulder.  From here scramble down right(west) for about 150', and then back left to a big lower ledge to its end.  Rap anchors are are 10' below the ledge directly above the light brown summit of the huge detached pillar that has a falcon head on the left side of the south face.  Rap 160' to the west side base of the pillar, and then another 150' to the ground.

The climb is named after the official motto of the State of New Hampshire. First used in a toast by General John Stark in 1809 when he said "Live Free or Die: Death is not the worst of evils." All four climbers at one time or another lived in NH for several years; Gene was born there, Jim still lives there. Jim wanted to climb a virgin tower ..so we gave him one of our projects! He loved carrying the drill... The route therefore is dedicated to all the New Hampshire climbers who after practicing on the granite they prepared them selves for the rigors of the sandstone and contributed to so many new climbs in the SW deserts of Utah..

The route starts at the right-hand end of the Weasel formation. It climbs the very impressive crack system up Wingate-quality rock.

P1) Mixed aid (8 bolts) and free up the offwidth crack to reach double anchors 5.9 C2 180' (This pitch might go all free at about 5.11).

P2) Continue up the crack now less steep for about 50' to the second bolt in the left side of the chimney, biner and sling in place. From here lower down and tension/climb down to the left to reach cracks leading to an overhanging notch. Up this to double anchors. 5.8 C2. 100' NOTE: Due to the angle best to leave a rope fixed tight to the anchor top of the first pitch for the descent.

P3) The crack continues up to the left to reach the summit area. 5.6 80'. (rap anchors on right edge)

P4) A short 30' pitch to the true summit. 5.6.

Downclimb the couple of moves. There is a register in a cairn in a groove on the big ledge about 40' below the true summit.

Descent: Rap the route.

The route is on the south face of The Pinnacle, about 150' left of the Howe/Garrents "Pinnacle South Face Route".  The route climbs the very obvious open book corner to the Rooster shaped block that can been seen from as far away as I70.  The route is a classic high adventure sandstone climb with some quite awkward aid and free moves.The route climbs up a monster groove which is a tad dangerous as if any rock is dislodged it is most likely end up in your seconds lap or worse.

P1) Just out from the corner follow the thin left-angling crack past a small roof with a bolt, and then up right via ledges and short cracks to anchors.  120' C2 5.8.

P2) The cracks improve for awhile then close up(2 #1 angles).  80' C2 A1 5.8.

P3) Continue up the corner passing 4 bolts at a blank section to a hanging belay. 100' C2 5.8.

P4) Go up the left trending corner with aid and free moves(2 bolts) to an obvious fork lightning 3" crack.  Pull out left and climb about 40' to the summit rim. The rap/anchors are situated in a very large block just below the rim . The last 30' or so of climbing to the anchors is quite loose  100' C2 5.7R.

FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter. March 19 2004.

Climbs a connected spire at the far West (left side  of the Weasel formation . Good rock fine situations.P1). The route climbs the north side .Starts below some grooves that lead to an obvious crack system that leads to the gap below the headwall.Up a short thin crack then another groove to a ledge with good cam belay left of the long crack.70'5.7. P2)Move left and gain the crack which was climbed using a #4,#5,#6 friends cam. These were slid ,odd one was pulled on to reach double anchors..(will go all free) 5.9 AO. 100'P3)Climb up left and ascend the headwall with use of 2 cams 4 bolts and two threads to a fine summit 5.5 C1 60'. Register in hole 2'below summit. Rap to the top of  P2 then full rap to the ground.

The route lies on the Pinnacle side on the east end of the Weasel formation.  It is about 500' left of "The Rooster" climb, and starts up a superb wingate left facing groove that leads to the right end of a long roof system at about 190'.  An interesting mixed climb on excellent rock from aid to a fine finish up the 5.10 headwall.

P1) The crack in the groove starts at 3" and tapers to to small stopper size.  A previous attempt using pitons ended at 100' at a bolt on the left below a small roof.  From the bolt continue up the groove, and then up and out right of the roof past two bolts to double anchors. 140' C2.

P2) A 13 bolt ladder apart from 2 stoppers and a #4 friend to double bolt anchors.  90' A0.

P3) Climb directly up the headwall above the belay past two protection bolts.  60' 5.10.

FA: Paul Ross and Layne Potter (var leads) May 22 2005

. Situated on the Weasel left of the central climb of Ozymandias. The  detached tower in the shape of Horus the Egyptian Hawk God.A fun tower with great situations on the final pitch. The climb starts up  the thinner right hand crack on the right side of the tower. P1)Climb a short easy chimney to a ledge then follow steep cracks on the right,odd free moves ,strenuous.( Now that its cleaned it might go   free at about 5.10ish)The crack leads to a large sloping ledge at the gap between the tower and the main wall . Double anchors 160'5.8 C1/2 P2).Follow bolt ladder out left below the big roof to the exposed edge ,then straight up the face to a short slab ,climb this to a fine summit.80'5.6 C1. Register in cairn. Descent . Single 60m rope rap to the gap then double rope rap from top of P1 to the ground

Belfry Tower is located on the east side of the Weasel formation.  It is recognised by its double belfry type summit.  Two routes have been climbed on this tower.  The following route is on the north side.  From the approach path to the bottom of the rock(see also description in Wall Street to San Rafael Swell Desert Guide by Eric Bjornstad), walk east passing the south side of Belfry and around the end of the formation until one comes to a very striking fork lighting hand crack on the north side(see photo).

P1) Climb the superb crack to a good ledge and cave with bolt anchors. This will go all free at about 5.11. 120' C1.

P2) Follow grooves and cracks passing double stormed off anchors to a good ledge and bolt belays.  100' 5.9 C1.

P3) Continue up a short offwidth crack, and then climb an unusual squeeze chimney to the summit and a register.  90' 5.8.

FA: Paul Marshall and Paul Ross.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Weasel Formation