Part of this route is in the Mojave Limestone book as Unknown. I spent the better part of a day taking off some of the biggest and scariest blocks I have ever come across. There was an old bolt at the lip that had some ancient webbing on it that looked like it had been used to bail off. The seam/crack above the bolt was filled with grass and dirt. If this route has been done before please let me know and I will be happy to change the name, FA whatever. Its now a super nice route with good rock, after you get by the opening 30ft.Start 30ft right of Fade to Gray below an obvious tree. Climb/stem up the first 30ft past the tree to get to the headwall split by a ledge. Pull the headwall and up the seam (crux) to great climbing up slab to anchor.Descent: From top anchor lower to the Up the Junction anchor cleaning gear. Pull the rope, then carry on down from the Up the Junction anchor with a 70M ROPE to ground.

Destination Unknown

Fade to Grey

Up the Junction

Start up some blocky rock to a ledge (long slings may help here for any rope drag) where the seam/crack starts. Up the steep wall and face to ledge below corner. Up corner to hard moves left and pull the roof. Finish up the amazing slanting crack to anchor.Descent: Couple of ways to do this. Trail a tag line and rap or lower from anchor over to the Up the Junction anchor and belay your second up. (Bring the camera to get some great shots of your partner pulling the roof and climbing the slab!) Then rap from the Up the Junction anchor with a 70M ROPE, it just makes it.

Start as for Destination Unknown to ledge where routes split. Move right and up small corner to below slab. Pull on to slab and tip toe up to the anchor.Lower off anchor with a 70M ROPE. 

The North End of the Main Rainbow Canyon Crag. Right of Tiki Tower as written up in Mojave Limestone Guide. Faces East

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 6. North End