Start on some crimps high foot move to some side pulls big move to the sloper double up high heel hook and send to the T. O. P.

Army of Darkness

Basketball Diaries

Left Hand Of Darkness

Queen Amadala

Right Hand Of Darkness

Frankenspank

The DiCaprio Arete

Frankenspank is the obvious line up pockets and pinches facing E on the Monster Block boulder (see description below).

Sit start with a decent crimp.  Move up and slightly left using pinches and some interesting pockets.  Better holds are found after the first few moves.  The crux comes right at you off the ground.

Sit start on a crimp or sidepull with your left hand and the obvious low hold with your right and traverse right and go up the slightly incut rails. pretty tricky start but i have never seen anyone do it.

Stand start with your left hand on a good sidepull and your right hand on a bad undercling or gastoned on a two pad edge. Puzzle together a way to get to the good shelf above. From there, continue upward angling either slightly left or right, depending on your preference.

You can also start this standing off the rock at left and reaching up to high holds on the arete. This makes the problem significantly easier (probably v4-ish?).

Come one come all the queens of the desert have christened a new problem on the Army of Darkness Boulder.  This formidable enemy of the empire starts the same as the Return of the Jedi and traverses the rail on devious slopers requiring more than a little finesse.  Line up for the last long move of Return and use the new found crimper to execute the last sequence.  If in doubt, ask one of the ladies for the beta and let justice be done...

Start the same as 'Army Of Darkness', with a good high right hand edge/sidepull and the left on a low crimpy sidepull/undercling. After getting established on the wall, move right into a shallow scoop and upward using underclings and small crimps.

This line rarely has chalk on it, which is a shame since it climbs beautifully and offers some of the finest rock at Big Bend. The lack of chalk adds to the experience as part of the difficulty lies in identifying usable holds amidst the sea of black sandstone.

Good footwork and unwavering confidence is helpful!

Start left of the Basketball Diaries start on the angling prow with 2 opposing features and bad feet. Slap up left on the arete and traverse right on good holds. Easy top out.  Descend on the north side of the boulder.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Army of Darkness Boulder