Climb the easy corner to the overhang directly above. I used the side wall for my feet but a climber could definitely increase the difficulty by staying off the side wall completely. The top out is dirty with soil and pebbles.

Up and Over

Chocolate Stain

Plan D

High Cheekbone

Easy Corner

White Swan Drive

Eight Ball Corner Pocket (Flake Route)

5.8 Crack

KChossy

Surprisingly Good

Doloroof

Milk Stain (Jump Start)

Waning Crescent

Fern Route

Waning Crescent is one of the most popular routes on the wall.  

  It starts on an blocky section that could almost be climbed without hands. The route drastically gets more and more challenging, none the less. After reaching the roof, carefully reach over it and hang on as the foot holds disappear. The routes name is derived from the crux hold the looks like a moon. After hitting this, most people cut right to take a breather on some nice jugs. However, you can make this a burly direct route and go straight up. Either way finishes up on nasty slopers that you'll never be able to tell where the "good" ones are.

Chocolate Stain follows the intimidating brown stain in the middle of the wall. A very powerful route despite how short it is.  

  Start under the brown stain on the assortment of pockets tat just seem a little bit too small. Bouldery moves take you to the flake that marks the beginning of the stain. The flake seems questionable but has seen a lot of abuse and still stands strong. Powerful and long moves take you through the stain and leave you under the overhang. The typical slopers that are all too common at the tops of these routes are the last chance for the route to pump you out.  

  Once you get to the top, turn around and soak in one of the best views in High Cliff that only the select few climbers get to enjoy.

Plan D is a great route that most people have failed to notice. The route ascends the middle of the first large face after you come down the access gully. It forges up the blank face, through a bulge, and into the crux dead point that has shut down multiple climbers. After the dead point, finish through the top jugs.

Starts about 5 ft to the right of Doloroof on the two hand holds about shoulder level on the flat part of the wall.  4-move sequence up and to the left ending about 10-15 ft off the ground.

Goes up the corner to the ledge halfway up the route. Then traverse to the right of the overhang. Shares the same start as "Up and Over".

20-30 ft to the right of the Red Bird Statue climbs at the obvious roof that's about 3-4 ft high. Starting on the north edge and finishes on the face. I stopped about midway up the face on a nice ledge.

Eight Ball Corner Pocket is THE warm-up route for this wall. This is also the project that the intermediate climbers of High Cliff dream of.  

  The route starts under the massive white flake in the middle of the wall. Work straight up to this flake, and shake out for the crux of the route.    Traverse right under the overhang and work straight up the side of the overhang. Once you conquer this, commit to the ending section of slopers.

The 5.8 crack is located on the north-facing cliff about 200 yards to the west of the Redbird statue. This route was originally described as a "classic 5.8". It is the leftmost route on a steep section of fair-quality rock. 

  Pull up through the obvious crack system to the roof. Move right and grunt through some jugs to the top.

It's about 30ft to the left of Up and Over. At the time it was very chossy and unclean it's a fun route to start on.

Route got its name because it looks like the rock halfway up will be choss, but it is actually surprisingly solid. 

  Make a stretchy move to get off the ground, and then climb the face on pretty enjoyable movements to a nice top out.

Nice 4-5 move sequence with a below roof start.  Fun movements from under the roof following the crest of the nose.

Milk Stain is a popular route that follows the obvious white stain to the right of Fern Crack. It is also one of the easiest routes on the wall.    You can either jump start it to the big ledge under the stain or if you don't have the ups to get you into the NBA, take the crimpy boulder route to get up to it.   Working straight up the stain from here is more difficult, so most people work left and then come back to the stain. Reachy moves take you to the flake up top that hosts nice lay backs. The top overhang tests your endurance but provides you with nice jugs.

Bouldery start to the flaring crack.  Shimmy up the dihedral to the pumpy finish.

Home to the best climbing on the North side of the park.  Several lines of good quality can be found here.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 6. Red Bird Statue Area