Another great trad line at East Peak. The description is for the "present" free line put up by Ken in the mid 80s. Climb broken rock for the first half of the route to the horizontal crack system that spans the cliff. From the horizontal follow the steep crack system just right of the arête to a sequential and powerful crux sequence. Rated 11+ in "Hooked on Trap Rock" this route is a significant step up from other trap rock 11s.

Trial and Triumph

Reflections of Fall

Stallion

Silver Meteor

Crossroads

Super Power

Falling Star

Hercules Unchained

This is a fun corner/ crack climb that has a good variety of movement. A somewhat dirty start leads to clean and sustained crack climbing and stemming in an offwidth corner, ending with steep fingerlocks.

Starting from the Reflections Ledge, follow the left arete to a horizontal crack where you switch sides around the arete. From here climb diagonal up and left through some overhanging rock to a ledge on the arete. Climb the right side to topout.

Beautiful rock, great holds, and fantastic sustained movement. A testament to the high quality climbing at East Peak.Scramble up blocky ledges near a small elm tree. Follow face holds to reach your first piece of protection at about 30' (5.10- X). Climb higher, eventually reaching a wide horizontal crack that spans the cliff face. Carefully peer into the crack, seeing if the monster rat snake has returned home that day.

 Rest and then pull above the roof at a left-facing corner, questing into the action packed cruxes above. Follow an incipient rounded crack, sloping hand holds, and virtually non-existent footholds up and then move left, (crux, 5.12d R if placing gear on lead) eventually reaching a rest stance. Good protection is available here, but the gear is very specific, somewhat finicky, and it's strenuous to place.

 Continue above, following an interesting variety of holds near a jagged crack, and enjoy sustained pumpy climbing. Crank higher into the delicate and powerful redpoint crux - slapping for holds right at the top of the cliff.

Climb the left facing corner to the right of Superpower and finish on the crack above the left end of the ledge.

Easy climbing leads to a horizontal rest and a nice overhanging face. Go straight up through the first overlap, and to the top of the loose flake and vertical crack/seam. Climb to the next, smaller horizontal, and either go up and slightly right to the short arête for the original route, or alternatively move slightly left to finish up the face through a series of side pulls. Although the start is unprotected the upper crack and face protects well with modern gear. 

The difficult, thin, and steep face just to the left of Reflections. The climbing is relatively easy until about half way up, at the large horizontal crack (with the three large snakeskins!). Above this the angle increases and the holds become smaller as well as farther apart. Have fun.

Work up the low angled stuff until you get to the business, A shallow right facing corner and overlap. A bit of history: During the first ascent Fedrizzi fell with a loop of rope in his mouth and snapped a tooth off at the gum line. Feeling no pain after lowering off he went back up and finished the lead. If this isn't accurate someone please correct me in the comments section and I will edit the text.

This wall faces south making it good for colder weather. A 60m rope JUST makes it so be careful if rappelling or TRing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fall Wall