Between the two trees, this spectacular face climb follows three bolts.

Flamer

Warm Up Route

Brass Monkey

Great Expectations

Brass Arete

Lavwelle Latte

Grey Face

Grey Nose

Cornflake Crack

The Murky Way

Easy Day for a Layback

Interesting moves -- not so murky.    If only this were longer.

Climb the face past 3 bolts at the right end of the wall. The start is about 10' to the right of the Cornflake Crack.

Climb the face between Great Expectations and the arete+chimney.

Climb past two bolts to the crux at the third bolt.

Start up the corner/arete. Finish up the corner/arete past two bolts.   Variation (easier): Start on Brass Monkey face, then move right to the arete and bolts. 

  (One print guidebook gives the name of this route as, "5.10b")

Start to the right of Easy Day for a Layback and climb the face past 3 bolts. Decent face holds to an easy top out.

Climb over a bulge just right of the previous route and follow the left side of the face to an easy top out.

A bit harder and with more variety than Grey Face.   Get up onto the top of the low nose (crux, awkward) - (of course without using the Grey Face holds). Then straight up to right-facing corner (which is just right of Grey Face upper bolts) with some interesting moves.   . (optional extra: Continue to top of high block to the right above the two-bolt anchor for Grey Face - ? not protected ?)

Climb the crack starting just to the right of Grey Face. This is a great beginners climb with great gear placement.

Interesting moves up the right side of the arete.  

  . (Perhaps more difficult if attempt to climb directly on the arete?)

The west side of the interior corridor of the Library -- which is the east wall of the big detached block. 

  When approaching from Paradise, the main thing you see is the large detached block. Then when you get there you discover a corridor behind the block, between the main block and a "normal" non-detached cliff face. The corridor and the two main faces of the block all run roughly SSW to NNE. The widest and easiest entrance to the corridor is on its NNE end.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Block, Back Side