Oh my God this route is awesome! For those of you who failed (or failed to take) anatomy class, a sphincter is a a circular muscle, that normally maintains constriction of a natural body passage or orifice and which relaxes as required by normal physiological functioning. There are over 50 different sphincters in the human body...and yes, there is one in your butthole. 

  BOULDERY! This climb has a wonderfully hard, extremely overhanging start which requires the climber to correctly place at least one or two fingers in a oddly deep pocket, that yes...(sigh)...does resemble a sphincter.  

  After that, it's jugs, jugs and more jugs to the top of the climb. Get on this thing! It's awesome and proctologist approved!

Screaming Sphincter

Sock Juice

Lung Butter

Dirk Diggler

A Route

This fun route contains a challenging boulder problem for the first few moves then eases substantially to the finish.  Start on a ledge of choss (stickclip recommended) and make dynamic moves on less than optimal holds.  Hit a nice jug and work past a mono to easier but thought provoking climbing to the anchors.

Use up all your juice at the beginning of this climb by figuring out how to use a horn-like feature. Wrangle your feet up and hit a plethora of great holds. Pockets, jugs, monos, sidepulls, gastones, crimpers...it's all there.

Start up on good holds, sharing a few holds with "Dirk Diggler" a few moves in.   After the shared jug break slightly left on great two finger pockets with a few long pulls thrown in.  For a shorter route the steep pocket section will test your pocket pulling stamina.

What up, Homie? Welcome to the hood. Just a few rolling switch backs and less than half a dozen urban-city blocks away from the Big Picture Wall are few bad-ass routes that carry shanks and gats in their back pocket. Ranging from 5.10a to 5.12a these gangster-rappers stay Slim Shady in the early afternoon and evening while the rest of the canyon is baking. When everyone else is buggin' this wall is perfect place to chill and lay low. See ya on the flip side.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Word Up Wall