Fun little adventurous alpine route that may have the feel of an FA when done with no beta. Mostly scrambly with a few distinct cruxes and decision making/ route finding moments. Not to be taken lightly due to the alpine blocky terrain, some unclean rock and sparse pro.

Finding the crack and piton described below, pass lichen and moss encrusted rock being careful to avoid it by using good holds, clean rock and climbing an interesting sequence.  Ascend this (1st crux) and traverse right ~80' on a sandy ledge to belay at a tree.  (This crux can be protected for the follower by slinging multiple large limbs of a bush.)

~50 to the right of the tree is a hornet's nest.  Start next to the tree and ascend loose blocky terrain climbing the solidly attached rock of high quality.

At the summit where it steepens, head right.  A good yellow alien where you begin traversing right inspires confidence.  An interesting traverse move that calls for finding positive but small holds (crux 2) finishes the route psychologically before you complete the final 15' top out scramble.  (Final traverse crux can be protected for follower above with a hard to spot small cam inside a well-attached block.)

The route name itself is an Italian reference to the piton whose meaning can easily be ascertained once translated.

Pitone usato nelle dolomiti?

Silver Fern

Robinson Ridge

Fähndlimaa

Couloir du Pissoir

Penn Alti

z'Vieri

Southern Cross

Variety of interesting moves. Upper part is more sustained than might have guessed.

Up to the overhang, next up around its left side. Then straight up crack, and finish on face then groove to top.

name

: Route in the "moderate" sector of the Gimmelwald sport-climbing area in Switzerland.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has just some odd name copied from a crag in another country, awaiting installation of hardware).

Engaging slab moves on bullet stone. Scramble up a slanted refrigerator block (20 feet of 4th-class) to reach the first bolt. Then follow bolts up the cryptic face to a two-bolt chain anchor.

This line was first envisioned (and toproped) by Alistair Veitch and Ken Robinson. It is still possible to TR this route by scrambling to the top anchor via the left side of the crag. The shorter face just left of Silver Fern can be toproped at 5.7/8 - this line is referred to as "Southern Cross".

Climbing on a real arete, much on the crest of the ridge. A little taste of an "alpine" rock route.

Pitch 1: Start down below right from the base of the arete (or start on the arete and immediately traverse into the Right face. Up the face to join the arete, next up the arete to a small dihedral. Crux is to get past its top. Just above dihedral find two-bolt anchor above behind flat platform. (5.4, 80 feet, 3 bolts)

Pitch 2: Then more along the crest of the ridge to a steeper section. The second crux is to get up this. Finish at obvious flat spot with a low bush with two-bolt anchor for belay (below right from it) -- also a separate two-bolts-with-ring rappel anchor. (5.4, 110 feet, 2 bolts)

Optional extra: Continue up the ridge a ways (class 3+) then bear right (NW) toward summit knob with bigger view (class 3+).

descent

: Three options:

a) rappel southeast from the two-bolt anchor down into the gully. A 60-meter rope will reach to below the 4th class sections of the gully, then hike on steep rugged slope (sometimes loose) to the bottom of the gully. This gully will always have some loose rock, so try to have each person clear off to a safer place away to the side while the next person makes their rappel -- and especially while pulling the rope down.

b) scramble up higher (west) until can go left (south) into the gully, then east down the gully (4th class) back to the bottom.

c) scramble up higher (west) until can go left (south) into the gully, but then instead of going down east, continue south scrambling up out of the gully, then traverse on rock to the top of

the sector 1 Gastlosen

rock, and use one of the descent methods (rappel or down-scramble) for that sector. This entirely avoids the gully.

Name

: for Doug Robinson, who made great contributions to every aspect of Eastside Sierra climbing and backcountry skiing. So next the "Robinson question": What is the only kind to which he did

not

make a contribution?

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Not the easiest or best way to the top of the cliffs nearby.

This obvious route has a few interesting class 4 moves, but it's only a couple of short sections. The rest is just scrambling or hiking on loose rock and vegetation. It is a sort of interesting space -- you can check out overhanging rock on its north side.

Way more fun + interesting non-hard climbing to be done on the arete which forms the north edge of this gully -- next route to the right on MountainProject.

If not hauling a load up, this gully might be the quickest access to top of the cliffs nearby -- but surely not the easiest (rather see the zig-zag way for top access up through sector 1 Gastlosen).

warning

: Climbing up or down in this gully is exposed to falling loose rock, both from above in the gully itself, and from outside above the sides of the gully (especially from the south side).

Not a place to be when other parties or persons are around, either above in the gully, or on the cliffs and rocks alongside.

. (maybe safer when the ground surface in and around is well-frozen?)

name: "Couloir du Pissoir" is a gully in the SouthWest corner of Switzerland above the village of Trient, which gets skied sometimes.

Lots of moves on positive holds.

Up the little "ridge" in the center of the gully, next trend to the left side of gully, then exit left onto face and up that.

name

: Route in the "moderate" sector of the Gimmelwald sport-climbing area in Switzerland.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has just some odd name copied from a crag in another country, awaiting installation of hardware).

Thoughtful moves on slopy holds.

Straight up the more textured rock with crack on left side of light yellow-orange face.

name

: Route in the "moderate" sector of the Gimmelwald sport-climbing area in Switzerland.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has just some odd name copied from a crag in another country, awaiting installation of hardware).

Nice face climbing.

Straight up the face.

Loose flake in lower section as of July 2017.

name

: Along with the silver fern, the four stars of the Cross constellation are featured on national flag designs of New Zealand - (the four stars also represent four islands).

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own new name for this climb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 2-Robinson