Climb up to a fun jug haul roof then up to a two bolt anchor. This is a short route, but pulling the roof makes it all worth it.

Coach McGrath

Kitty Litter

Throw Me a Bone

Snake Jazz

90 Day Construction Bod

Looks like a Puma

Walking the Giant

Trumaine

Eye of the Liger

Calm Between Storms

Canadian Lynx

M-12 LRV Warthog

Truly Untamed

Mo’ai

Straight Down to Nothing

Divine Debris

Snaggletooth

Room with a View

Jungle Cat

Highland Tiger

Express Hang Over

Krushinski

Finch

Glorious

Ocelot

Cat In Heat

Wind and Rodents

Climb up past two bolts to a nice roof, and pull through the roof and past two more bolts to a two bolt anchor. Protect the roof move with either a #2, #3, or #4 BD cam and one more small cam lower.

Start on the lower left of the face, and climb up trending right and up through the notch to an upper bolted anchor.

Face climbing past 3 bolts to the wide pegmatite band then from here go left past one more bolt and up a crack before moving right onto a big bulge and the anchor. Bring a single rack and a #4 BD to protect the last move.

Climb the crack in the dihedral on the left side of the big roof to a big ledge. From here, continue up the left dihedral to a two bolt anchor.

Looks like a Puma has easy 5.0 climbing up to a roofy section with a couple of options all about 5.9. We worked on that giant block in the middle of the route for days and couldn’t get it out, it’s stuck pretty good.

Climb the offwidth corner up to the two bolt anchor. The lower section is short but too wide for gear till the top of the chimney where it chokes down and makes a nice constriction for a large hex. After you worm onto the ledge, work up the upper corner that takes Big Bros or you can walk a #9 Valley Giant to the top. A #6 BD may fit in one place, but it is not enough to protect the pitch without a runout.

Climb the right corner crack up to a two bolt anchor.

Eye of the Liger is a fine slab climb. Follow the bolt line on the far left of the face to a two bolt anchor.

Start in the crack in the middle of the face, and lead up to a dirty ledge. Continue up past a few bolts right of the tree to a two bolt anchor on the left.

Follow the crack in the middle of the face up to the lower anchor. From this anchor, you can continue up the crack on your left to the upper anchor, but it’s so close to

Mo’ai

. It’s not really its own line.

Start on the ledge to the left of the tree, and avoid using the tree while pulling up and onto a ledge. Continue with an easy scramble to an upper ledge, then follow the dihedral to a small roofy section. There is a two bolt anchor on the left face after pulling the roof.

Truly Untamed has 3 dimensional climbing in a chimney to a ledge, then climb up a dihedral with a corner crack (crux) to another ledge. The anchors are on the face to the right.

Start far left in the dihedral, and climb up to a roof. Move right past one bolt to a good sidepull to get past the roof, then move up and back to the dihedral for fun, continuous 5.7 movement to the upper anchors. There is a reachy .10 variation - at the bolt, reach up and left to pull through the roof. If you’re under 6 feet tall, you probably won't reach it.

Begin with a thin, balancy, techy face climb up the center of the face. Then trend left to the shared anchor with

Walking the Giant

.

Divine Debris has chimney climbing with a lot of gear options. Move out onto the face about halfway up, and move up to a two bolt anchor. There is an optional face climb that can be TR’ed after you lead the chimney. It’s a balancy 5.8 that was too short for bolting but makes for a fun lap on TR. Climb the face directly below the anchor to the point where you came out of the chimney.

Start just below the pegmatite band with a snaggletooth hanging out. Climb up a shallow diehdral to the next pegmatite band. Balancey/techy movements from here up to a small roofy section. Pull through and up to a two bolt anchor on your right.

On lead, you’ll want to stay in the left crack directly below the tree. As you approach the tree, move right past the only bolt on the route and up into the short chimney. The offwidth on the right is a fun toprope variation with crap gear for leading and climbs at about the same grade. When you get to the anchor make sure you look over the rock and down the canyon for an amazing view.

Start just right of

Snaggletooth

in a shallow corner. Climb up through a pegmatite band with a bolt to a hand crack. From here, it’s up and right to a blocky roof and a notch to the left. Sidepulls and high foot holds plus a good nut placement get you through the roof as you move left through the notch. Continue up the bulge to a two bolt anchor just over the deluxe bivy for two.

Follow the crack up the center of the face to a small overhang, then climb up and right to another crack and on up to the two bolt anchor under the roof in the center.

Pull through the roof, and climb up to the rightmost anchor.

Move right on the face, and clip the bolt, then head up a corner crack to a two bolt anchor.

There are two potentials starts up to the small roof. Pull the roof, and climb the face with a small crack for gear to the center anchor.

The first start: stay left of the bolts on the face with balancy compression moves.

The second start, stay right of the bolts in the dihedral. Climb thin, balancy moves with small to no hands.

Both starts are in the 5.11 range with the right start being maybe a letter grade harder than the left.

Climb the crack on the right side of the roof. This looks cruxy and intimidating, but there are a lot of ledges for your feet and jugs for your hands. From the ledge, continue up the right to a two bolt anchor.

Start in the offwidth on the right, and move up to a small bulge. Find gear on the left side of the bulge as you climb up it. Continue up to a two bolt anchor under the roof.

Wind and Rodents has easy movement up to a roofy section with a pegmatite band running through it (crux). After pulling the roof, the climbing eases up again and leads to the left anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Wildcat One South Face