An alternative second pitch variation to "Speed of Life" that starts off the first belay of that route. Crux is an 5.10a undercling roof.

Moose and Squirrel

Codex

Full Speed Ahead

Moon Dawg

Catt and Moose

The Speed of Life

This is an obscure but ultra-classic two-pitch climb on the outskirts of Tuolumne Meadows. It sits by itself (actually there are two or three other climbs of lesser quality) far above Ellery Lake which in turn is just a few miles outside of the park along Hwy 120. Park, cross the dam, and hike up the steep, loose slope to the lowest tongue of rock that is usually guarded by a steep patch of ice/snow. Why did you endure this grueling 45 minute slog for just two pitches?

P1: Ascend a beautiful pitch of crisp, white Sierra granite. The crux is bouldery but well protected with a small cam and some wires. Up higher its nice to have a very large cam to protect some wide cracks, but this section is quite easy. A final, wild move around the corner to the right leads up to a bolted belay. 5.10+.

P2: Start directly (sketchy gear and rock) or move right then back left (a bit dirty). Climb the long, leaning, overhanging splitter via jams and liebacks. Sandbag 5.11b; outstanding!

Two double-rope (or a single 80m rope) rappels from nice ASCA hardware gets you back down.

Starts over and west of "Speed of Life" on the exposed buttress next to the Ellery Couloir. Pitch 1 involves a 5.10c undercling leading up to a belay on a rocky ledge. The second pitch (5.12a lieback) ends on the top of Golden Rock.

5.11c lie-back undercling leads to a hand crack finish to a ledge. To descend, walk off right into the couloir.

Short 5.9+ hand crack beginning from the rocky belay ledge at the top of "Full Speed Ahead" (5.11c lb). Can be done as a second pitch to "Full Speed Ahead".

If you've hiked up to climb Speed of Life and want to tack on another pitch or 3, this makes an excellent addition.

Begin in an acute corner right of Codex under a roof.

Climb through the roof using great jams and contorted body position. This is the best, hardest, and best protected pitch of the climb. (5.11) (an escape right is easily accomplished from here)

Climb the left facing corner to a ledge (5.10), then move right and climb a seam to another good ledge (5.8R. I might go add a bolt later).

Climb the exposed arete on the right side to the top of the buttress (5.8R. I might add a bolt here too).

We did a short rappel to join Speed of Life. Walk off left is another option.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Golden Rock