This 5.7-8 chimney offers some fun wide crack climbing.  There is a hand crack running up the right side, so it is a very secure highball problem (left side in).

It would be possible to TR or lead this climb.

Bolt Wall Chimney

Mr. Spock

Black Slabbath

Thin Crack

Tendonitis Traverse

Revenge of the Nerds

Corner Cling

Lynn Hill Roof

Pin Scar Finger Crack

Knob Boy Arete

Slab Happy

Cat Spock Traverse

Bolt Wall

Revenge of the Tendonitis

Cat Eye Wall: Upper Roof (aka Face It, You're a Flake)

Cat's Eye Face

Reverse Tendonitis

This 5.6-5.7 slab climb is located to the left of the Bolt Wall.  Follow the face just to the left of the arete, which is formed by the chimney.  Almost all of the holds are positive, so this makes for a great moderate high ball problem.

This is my favorite down climb for the surrounding climbs.

This boulder problem is sandwiched amongst a bunch of toproping between

Bolt Wall

and the Cat's Eye area.  Find the bulge to the left of Cat's Eye face and to the right of pin scar crack.  Sit on the left side below the left arete of this bulge.  Grab the rail and crank up the arete.  A yummy shallow bidoigt namesake pocket with pinch is the business.  A variation pulls directly from the starting holds to this pocket (Dr. Spock - V6).

Black Slabbath follows the obvious black streak on the slab to the left of Bolt Wall.  The climbing is in the 5.6-5.7 range and the holds are mostly positive.  This route does get a little dirty due to run-off, though.

This committing crack starts out easy with a crux about 20 feet off the deck.  The final bulge can be avoided by stepping left into the chimney and joining the face on

Slab Happy

.  A fall from the crux will probably put you in the hospital.

This is a pretty good little traverse if you are running out of material at Rotary. I thought it should be added. It is pretty much a one move wonder that starts stemmed in the crack dihedral on the bolt wall. It goes right to left and the crux is staying on the wall while you remove your right foot from the stem. It lives up to its name as you grind your fingers into little crimps to stay on the wall. There's really only two or so hard moves after this and then an awesome cross to get the the easier terrain. Worth trying

This is the perfect 6 1/2 foot dyno on the left side of the bolt wall. Match both hands on the large sidepull, and launch for the incut straight above. Move right, and finish on bolt wall standard, or even better try the straight up finish.

Start in the corner, just to the right of

Cat's Eye Face

and climb to the corner under the low roof. Undercling to the left and finish as in

Cat's Eye Face

route.

This is a really exciting little known classic! Climb up the

Cat's Eye route

, and start out to the edge of the big roof. At the point the roof undercling/crack goes vertical, reach out right (with your left hand using some devious toe camming) to the crimps on the very outside bottom left corner of the huge roof. Match hands and scum feet under the roof and bump your right hand up several tiny edges heading slightly right and climbing directly up the face above the

Cat's Eye's

huge roof until you can throw for the good top edge at the left end of the upper roof with your left.

I'll guarantee there won't be any chalk on this one, so have fun figuring the sequence out on your own without the "Paint-by-Number" chalk and ticks of the rest of Rotary. It is probably in the 12d/13a range and maybe harder. It was the only top-rope problem at Rotary that we ever spent this kind of effort on! (We called it hard 11 because we didn't know that 20 years later every one would be upping our ratings on everything so that they could feel like they were doing something special.) Just say that it took [Mammen], Wilford, Blunk, Daly, and myself several weeks to finally get this one; and then Lynn came along and onsighted it! Any of you young guns up to onsighting this "Old Fart" route?

This fun finger crack is good practice for your finger lock technique.  The easiest variation uses stems and face holds.  The purest ascent uses only the crack.  You can top out on the easy face, or down climb to the right.

Sit start below the arete on the left side of the Cat Eye Wall.  Start on a bucket and climb the arete with pockets and edges.  Down climb to the left or finish on the easier face above.

My partner, Chris H., worked this one out for me.  Start at the right side of the Cat's Eye face in the classic crack.  Traverse the Cat's Eye face just off the ground.  A crux comes dropping around the first arete.  Keep feet off the dirt as one traverses beneath the bulge into the start of

Mr. Spock

.  Finally crank up this final arete.

This route is probably the best moderate high ball problem at Rotary.  There are many variations that begin about 10ft right of the 5.8 OW and about 10ft left of the 5.10+ finger crack on the main wall.  The first 15ft of the route is the crux, with the harder variation being on the right.  The difficult moves end at a horizontal rail about 15ft up.  The final 20ft of climbing angles up and right on positive edges and is ~5.9.  Take your time on the top out, since there is some loose rock and you are 35-40ft up.  Don't fall...

This links the

Tendonitis Traverse

into

Revenge of the Nerds

. It really comes down to how hard the dyno is (read: how tall you are).

This climb is onthe far right of the Cat Eye Wall or Bolt Wall.  Climb the corner or the flake to the upper roof and undercling left around the roof.  If you're bouldering this climb, don't fall! It's a long way down.  If you're toproping it, there is a spooky swing on the fall.

It is a fun route. I would suggest that you top rope it for your safety, but it is good to boulder it, too. It is located next to the the 5.8 roof. It is about 25 feet high.

Start on the far left of the Bolt Wall, and finish in the corner where the normal

Tendonitis Traverse

begins. You can do what you want once you're stood up in the corner, like check out your split tips.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Ridgeline, including Cat's Eye Face & Bolt Wall