Starts on Negativity Ledge directly above the anchors for Little Buddy. You can clip the first bolt by standing on top of a protruding boulder a few feet in front of the Little Buddy anchor. Muscle up an overhang and follow easy terrain to a tricky thin crack crux. Mussy hook anchor. Can be linked with Little Buddy for a full 40m of climbing.

Like the other adjacent routes, a 70m rope won't get you to the ground from the top anchor. It's recommended to use one of the many intermediate anchors on Negativity Ledge.

Starfish Prime

Lunar Rave

The Moon

Dark Star

Operation Fishbowl

Low Gravity

Lunar Wave

P1. 5.9, 70 feet. Climbs the first pitch of Lunar Wave. 8 bolts.

P2. 5.10b/c, 60ish feet. From the anchor atop the first pitch, looks for bolts following a shallow dihedral 5 feet to the left of the belay. Climb past bolts using jugs, sidepulls, and shallow jams. Great movement on this one, unique style for the area. A bit tricky to decipher at first but very fun once you unlock it. 5 bolts (a bit runout a the top but it's low 5th class). Shares a mussy hook anchor with Lunar Wave.

Note: A 70 meter gets you to the base from the top of Pitch 2. Also its possible to link pitches 1 and 2 for a quality 35 meters of sport climbing, but remember to bring long runners.

P1: (5.10b) Climb a tricky face until the large horizontal fracture that is part of the negativity cave. Belay from an anchor on the ledge.

P2: (5.10b) move right of the anchor through a roof. The bolts straight up from the anchor are for Low Gravity. After the roof, a crazy bowling-pin sized rock in a crack to your left marks the way forward. This thing wouldn't budge after slamming and wrenching it with a hammer so it should be pretty safe. Continue up the face to a crux at parallel-ish cracks. Finally, make your way up to Star Ledge, where mussies await.

Both pitches can be combined into one mega ~42m pitch that still feels like 10b+.

Be sure to lower to the first anchor! Even an 80m only gets you to the first ledge if rapping all the way from the top.

Climbs to the sides of a prominent crack on the right side of The Moon, including some tricky vertical/slab climbing on the first pitch, and a roof at the start of the second.

Makes for an awesome warmup or good first forray into multi-pitch climbing as the belay stations are comfy and it's easy to hear your partner.

P1 (5.9): Climb a short bulge to a ledge, conquer some easy slab, then climb the tricky face to the anchors. The bolts on the face are juuuuust close enough to the crack that you can climb said crack instead. The crack is significantly easier at about 5.5.

P2 (5.8/5.9): Move to the left of the anchor, then climb straight up through a roof. Besides conquering the roof, you should always be left of the crack. There are one or two spots where your feet get back to the crack, but the pitch is meant as a face climb, and doesn't stray more than a few feet from the bolt line.

P3 (5.6): Throwaway pitch to get you to the top. From Star Ledge, head up the right side until on the top of the benches. A top-roping anchor with just bolts is straight back while a lowering-off anchor with mussies is climber's left of the small pine-tree.

Furthermost left route of the new development at the crag. Begins off of the ledge at the bottom of the negativity cave, above the negativity slabs. Approach via any of the lower tier pitches of the negativity slabs, or from the first pitch of The Moon. The route begins 6 feet to the right of the mussy hook anchor for Little Buddy (most direct approach is to climb Little Buddy).

Begin in a left facing dihedral, climb past a couple of bolts on overhanging jugs to a slab. Follow the slab straight up to a thin crack, using side-pulls and thin crimps to access easier terrain above.

Note: A 70m rope will NOT get you to the ground from the top of the second tier, but pretty close if you're ok with downclimbing. An 80m will just barely reach. Safest option is to simply lower back to the start of the climb, and rappel to the ground on one of several rap stations on negativity ledge.

P1: (5.10b) Climb the first pitch of The Moon.

P2: (5.10c) Head straight up from the anchors into an immediate full-on roof traverse (crux). Good jugs mark the way as you scramble through long reaches until back to vertical face.

A crack marks the upper crux where either a quick balancey reach or an awkward, powerful lock-off get you through the business. A final top-roping directional awaits before the anchors.

Variation "Gravity Assist": (5.10b) instead of climbing the roof-traverse jugs at the start of P2, climb slightly right of the anchor and a few feet higher before heading left to a slopey traverse where the roof jugs of Low Gravity are now your feet. The proper beta makes this more like a 10b, but can be hard to decipher.

P1. 5.9 (maybe 5.8). 70 feet. Follow 8 bolts up a slab to a mussy hook anchor. More of an approach pitch then a stand alone outing, but still fun. Stay close to the bolt line otherwise you'll find yourself in the uber munge. A bit dirty still but should clean up nicely.

P2. 60ish feet. About 8 feet to the right of the anchor, look for a clean, left leaning slightly overhanging hand crack. Climb that crack! Nice hand jams peter out as the crack widens. Pull yourself up and over the lip into nice jams and face holds above. Mussy hook anchor at the top.

Note: A 70 meter rope will get you to the base from the top of pitch 2, though as always, watch your rope ends! If you're using a 60m, I definitely recommend using the intermediate anchor at the top of pitch 1 to rappel. It's possible to link both pitches but be sure to bring long runners.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Moon