The route start off on a low-angle slab with holds in all the right places. Features get slimmer and slimmer and the angle steeper and steeper as the route continues. At the headwall the moves get really interesting and fun. A few tricky moves up to the horizontal cracks gets you through the crux and to the jug-pulling to the anchors.

Rending of Garments

A Force To Be Reckoned With

The Awakening

Razors Edge

Tag Team

Gnashing of Teeth

Zealot

Just This Zealot

The Hookup

Demagogue

Czech Frogs Say Qua

Topless Vegetables

Recidivist

Mayhem

Another Day at the Office

Hubris

Harsh Rhetoric

Just This

Wet My Whistle

Liquid Kitty

Defoliant

Plumbers Arete

The Heeler

Climb into the large hueco and make a few technical moves trending up and left.  The area 10 feet or so above the pod is the crux.   Continue up and left for increasingly easier climbing to the shuts.   Avoid going too far left or you'll find yourself on the 5.12b route that's nearby.   Great climb!

Another classic 11b up an intimidating overhanging scoop.   This route starts with some thin slabbing up the scoop, and then a series of utterly perfect holds lead up through the overhang.  Super fun, excellent stone, great line!

Fun, easy climbing up a large featured runnel.

A short, but fun little route with lots of interesting features to grab. Lots of positive jugs lead into some sloping side-pulls and stemming in a large runnel. At the top the route changes personality to a short slabby section.

Todd Goss gives this route 3/3 stars in his guidebook. This is a great route in my opinion as well.

This is now the farthest East (Left) route on Kelly's Wall. Look for this route traversing above the lip where K-1 goes up. Starts off with some fun pinches, gets slabby for a moment and then finishes steeper with a 5.6+ move to the chains.

This fun moderate starts on the slab to the left of K-6. A tricky move leads to an overhanging arete section on powerful liebacks. The angle leans back as you head to the anchors on K-6.

Climb the low angle slab, sharing the start with Rending of Garments, 5.10a.   At the point where the wall gets steeper and the bolt lines split, take the right route up into the orange rock.

Start off moving right on jugs towards first bolt. After reaching the first bolt, begin upwards. Make a mildly scary big move off of an undercling to more big holds and jug haul to the short but powerful and crimpy crux at the 3rd or 4th bolt, pulling to the alcove full of fossilized poop flow. You'll know what I mean when you see it... Either climb into the alcove and rest or just follow the lip to the anchors.

FYI, crawling out of the alcove to reach the anchors is a bit spooky. But the rest stance is sooo nice.

If anyone knows the FA, the actual length, or any other good bits of info, let me know.

Start on Just This Finish on Zealot. Long Power endurance boulder problem. Both cruxes, harder than Just This.

Start up K-8, then follow pockets and slopers diagonally to the right to join K-9 for its last 4 bolts.  You skip the cruxes of both of those routes, but don't let the grade fool you!

This route has a very different feel than all the other nearby ones. Lots of smooth, but positive holds. It is a little more bouldery than the routes to the left, with a bunch of fun moves.

This route starts up a steep slab with tons of foot placements. If you don't know what to do, look down and move your feet. After a few bolts it gets slabby and very easy, then leads into a slight bulge that is pretty fun.

The rock quality is great. The limestone at Kelly's Rock is bullet-hard, and somewhat sharp. Just go easy on the hands, and work the feet.

Very featured holds abound for the first two thirds of the line, followed by vertical pinches and side-pulling fun near the top.

Delicately move up the slab to the first roof and quickly encounter the crux, moving left on marginal holds to a good side-pull.  Make the clip to avoid a nasty fall onto the ledge below, then move up and right through the slot and under some bird crap to a step out left for the chains.  Fun moves and great position.

Start on top of the block and move left.  Edges lead to difficult arete.

Starts and finishes on slab.  The hard part is the bold climbing to pass the diagonal seam midway up.

This is a really nice route that doesn't see as much traffic as the other 11's at Kelly's, but worth doing.   Start by climbing the dihedral to its top, then head a bit left, working upward toward a large ledge below an overhang.   Clip the bolt in the overhang and the crux begins.   After clipping the next bolt, its pretty cruiser, but really fun holds.   Nice long route, bring a 60M rope for sure.

Easy climbing on positive jugs for 2-3 bolts, then things get really smooth. It would be very easy to go to the left on Wet My Whistle, or the one to the right (since these climbs are all very close together). Some thin slabby climbing lead to an easier low-angle section up to the 5th bolt. After that, you need to overcome a slight bulge. Some fun moves are found here. Then it's some thinner moves to the chains.

Hard pocket pulls off the deck. The angle eventually relents, but not the technicality. A stick clip is advantageous.

Climb slightly to the right off the top of the boulder.  Move straight up from there on small slippery holds out of the scoop.  Easier climbing to the chains.

Fun, easy climbing with a low crux. Those allergic to runouts and sharp rock might not pick this one as a winner, but it's a good, easy route. Takes a hard left at the low-angle-the routes are so close here, it's tough to tell them apart.

Steep and stout climbing up the short bulging face. An intimidating line from the ground, big hidden holds dispersed through the water runnels give plenty of opportunities to finish without your face in your hand. An ok line for the area with some fun, interesting climbing.

Slab and Steep?

Scurry up the batter-like slab to the steep head wall. Side-pulls, crimps, and a jug or two finish it out. A bit pumpy and rather interesting, to say the least.

Easy face with good feet to the first bolt.  Shuffle back and forth on the flat slab to keep the grade reasonable.

Transition to the first short roof where the rock turns pricklier.  Clip a couple of bolts and then head slightly left.

Last bolt before the anchor is on the flat face to the right of the rib and is easy to miss if you're cruising comfortably.

Named for the dark and trendy martini lounge (and drink) in Los Angeles:

Update:  alas...the Liquid Kitty is closed.

thelosangelesbeat.com/2016/…

"The intoxicating darkness that is Liquid Kitty"

This route is named "k-8" because it originally was the eighth route from the left side.   Now it about the 11th or 12th, so things have changed a little.

Anyway, Todd Goss calls this "one of the best routes in Utah".  Wow... strong statement!   However, I am hard pressed to argue with him - I can't think of another one at the 11b grade that is as good as this.

Great pockets and edges through a couple of roofs, everything but the kitchen sink on this line.

A seemingly casual jaunt up featured limestone quickly turns to puzzlement at the third bolt, when holds disappear and you are left with a delicate, tricky move or two through the crux.

Subsequent to the puzzlement is a small roof with a little bit of technical positioning trickery required to see it through to the chains.

Sharp and slabby, this technical jaunt climbs an ever-steepening face over some vicious terrain. Difficult and hard to read, the top will keep you thinking. Exposed and a bit desperate.

Start by climbing up the steep slab on orange rock to reach the overhang.  Get a good shake and punch it to pull the lip (crux).   There's a good trick kneebar beta that really makes this not so tough.  Gain a stance above the roof and follow positive runnels to the end.  Fun!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Kelly's Rock