One for Dunning is one of the first routes you find on the right end of the Chubb Crack Wall. Two different starts effect the route's rating dramatically depending on starting directly below the first bolt or just down and right of the first bolt. this rating is based on the easier start just right of the bolt. Climb up then step left to use a pocket to clip the first bolt. Continue to the next bolts and rap anchors at the top.

One for Dunning

Geranium Mine

One for Dunning (Direct Start)

Salamander

Commuter

Poop Chute

Chubb Roof Traverse

Deathly Hollows

Hawt Hueco

Chubb Trail Crack

Arrow Head (Far Left)

Two different starts affect the route's rating dramatically depending on starting directly below the first bolt or just down and right of the first bolt. This rating is based on the harder start just direct below the first bolt.

This pocketed line is just right of Chubb Trail Crack. The easy start option involves using the beginning of the Chubb Trail Crack then heading right to the first bolt and up past many pockets and a hand full of bolts to a two bolt rap anchor. Harder start begins directly under the route and slightly right of the first bolt, pulling on pockets to manage your way over the low roof. Boulder problem crux feels like a 10+ move and is a bit reach dependent.

Fairly straightforward face climb, follow the bolts to the anchor.  The crux is right before the third bolt. It's possible to traverse to the left before the crux but a fall would be bad. This route has a lot of potential but it needs significant cleaning first.

Crux is the last 15 feet of the climb, between the last bolt and the two bolt anchor. Steep face with pockets transitions to a roof bulge with a reach. The route gets it's name from the fact that someone can move right and finish the climb on Chubb Trail Crack to avoid the crux.

Poop  Chute has an interesting start at the lower roof and dihedral crack. use a hand jam with the right and palm press with the left. Safety bolts are in place. Belayers should wear a helmet.

Traverse under the roof from One for Dunning to Poop Shoot.  It is possible to continue bouldering all the way to the Chubb Trail Crack start. The problem is a bit harder and require a bit more repeated cleaning. This is a nice diversion on a rainy day or while waiting your turn to climb.

Fun route that starts under an overhang. Pull through the roof (crux) and up through some interesting pockets. Climbing eases off as you move through some ledges. Pull through the last roof to reach the anchors. If your planning on top roping this, make sure you bring something long enough to extend your anchor over the edge.

 This line was only slightly cleaned and first climbed for the great pocketed boulder crux at the beginning then ran out a bit on small pro. Thank Andrew for all his cleaning and bolting effort. Enjoy the now well protected classic.

Cruise through the first two bolts on the pocketed face and be rewarded at the third bolt by this route's namesake. The crux move is getting over the small roof ahead. Skip the fifth bolt and push for the anchors if you want a spicy option with 15+ feet of run-out, or play it safe and clip the fifth.

This continuous crack sucks up pro so take a range of cams, nuts and what ever else you fancy. The crux is getting started and mellows after you are 10 feet off the ground. A slightly easier start involves several face moves just left of the base of the crack. This may feel more like a 5.7 crux for people who feel more comfortable with face climbing.

The first 30 foot vertical start requires stepping up onto the starting block then using small pockets and mid-finger depth side pulls to move through a well defined 9 sequence. Mantle up and to the right to top out the first section. Roughly 15 feet of 5.2 ascends a ramp band section of chert. A section of 5.5 moves to top out. Rap anchors provided a the top, just below the lip.

Pocketed Limestone facing northwest towards afternoon light and sunsets.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chubb Trail Crack Wall