Dial A Muffin is a vertical puzzle with a friable start and anti-climatic finish.  The sequence between the first and second bolts is as perplexing as it is difficult.  After numerous hesitant attempts and a hilariously misguided attempt to aid climb, I resorted to stick clipping the second bolt to work out a sequence on toprope.  The remainder of the route ascends higher quality rock but is nowhere near as challenging.  Throughout the route the bolts forced me right while the features drew me left.  While a fun puzzle, Dial A Muffin is in the vicinity of great lines; leave it for last.

Dial A Muffin

Sine Wave

Doughboy

Flyboy

Tangent

Footnotes

Similar climbing to Tangent with a nice hard bit up top. The traverse is enjoyable.

A fun and extremely bouldery climb.  A hard, shouldery boulder problem off the ground leads to an obviously chipped hold and a few pulls over the first bulge.  A second (crux) boulder problem is encountered, with a couple options.  The FAist went a little left to the pod in the quartz band and pulled some super thuggy, long moves; another method goes a bit right, almost to the arete, then back toward the center.  The jug-laden left arete is off.  After the crux, trend up and left up a flake past one more bolt to the chains. 

  Mico hit the nail on the head when he said "the bottom and middle are really, really hard, and the end isn't easy."   There aren't any particularly easy moves on this one until the very end.

Really fun route that climbs the arete just right of Doughboy. Underclings, side pulls, crimpers, this thing packs it all in.

Tangent is like a choose your own adventure route. An abundance of medium sized sharp holds litter the route from bottom to top with ample rests. This provides many opportunities for excessive showboating. 

  The downside is that many of the holds, while solid, feel brittle and thus don't inspire confidence.

Like a moth to a flame, the guidebook description of "super technical face" drew me to this line.  As a connoisseur of this shunned art expectations were high.  Clipping the chains with a trail of tick marks and shoe rubber below I smiled; Footnotes had lived up to its byline. 

  Delicate edging and crimping leads to a low angle rest.  From the midpoint on, the hands fade into crimps and the feet into smears.  It is improbable and totally awesome.  Footnotes is highly recommended for those who enjoy thin face climbing.

The Stovepipe is an enjoyable tower a short walk from the Windy Point parking area. Located just right of New Wave Wall, this tower hosts two enjoyable 11s on the west face that can serve as decent warm ups for the steeper and harder routes on New Wave. A couple hard routes await those wishing to court hard 12 and 13.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Stovepipe