Climb large pockets and edges on somewhat steep ground.  This is the easiest route on the wall and a great but short warmup. (Hangers were removed from the extension for unknown reasons.)

Alien Semen Rash

Go Back to Colorado

Under the Influence

Mirth

Suck the Nipple

Psychoactive

Shut the Fuck Up

Gloom

Baby Model

This climb wanders up generous pockets and edges on good steep peanut buttery rock for the first half, enough to get you pumped and paying attention. The upper half is much better and more compact rock with smaller features and well spaced bolts. Expect a thin and devious crux up high and more tricky thin climbing to the anchors. Mind-bendingly long and puzzling. A tough onsight for sure!

Much like Gloom and most of the Upper Psychoactive routes, this one lulls you into a sense of possible heroic flash.  Alas, it will not submit so easily and because this is a MW route from back in the sandbag days, it is waiting to kick you in the Jimmy before giving up the chains.  Seriously fun and then wickedly hard at the end.

Choose your 5.10 entry method to attain the crack system. Pick your way through the first steeper roof to find a great jug undercling just below the small roof. Figure out and execute what could be the hardest '.12a' move in the canyon. Scamper up easy but off balance moves to the anchor.  Fun climbing but quite difficult to onsight.  Anchor should be moved 6 feet to the left to avoid rope drag. Anyone?

Classic pocket pulling on the peanut-buttery variety of Tensleep rock. Gets progressively harder the higher you get. Deep, incut pockets of all shapes and sizes on this one. One of the best of the grade in Tensleep, similar to Joy of Heresy at the Ark.

This route climbs the face left of S.T.F.U.. Start on easy terrain past the first ledge, and continue up the face with increasing difficulty at every bolt. A tricky 12+ section gets you to the last bolt. Try to get a quick shake/chalk, then move left and straight up into the thin technical crux section just below the anchor.

Center of the scoop on the main face.  Cruzer for the first several bolts then gets cruxin 2/3 of the way up.

Moderate climbing to crux at the anchors.

A jug haul through 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The book warns that it is a tad runout by Ten Sleep standards, but the runout areas provide excellent jugs. The crux comes about 2/3 the way up where the jugs are maybe slightly smaller than you want, and you begin to fight some pump. Power through to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Psychoactive Wall