A great route up a dike on Stewart Peak. Scramble onto boulder at the base of the dike. Clip first bolt while stemming off the boulder and the route. Move up on bolts to the crux up high. After unclipping the last bolt, the follower needs to have a good hold on top of the Arete to keep from falling sideways to the anchor. 

The Blade of Damascus

Juggalo Gigalo

Dueling Bugles

Juggalette

Abbey Road

Zen Plum

Colonel Sanders Goes to the Pocket

Lost in the Weeds

Stealing Mirth

Just walk

Bikes, Barbells, and Big Cracks

South Crack

One pump chump

Digital Minimalism

Spelunk

Buttcrack

All hail the mighty Tri-sac-a-saurus

You a looker, or you a feeler?

Pancake Butt Dumpster Slut

Mimbo Slice

Summit block hand crack. splitter low angle hands to loose hands. fun easy romp

Juggalo Gigalo is a well-protected slab route, which makes it great for beginner leaders, or those new to slab climbing. The summit of Stewart Peak is easily accessed from the top of the climb. 

  Juggalo Gigalo can be started by using the boulders to the left or right of the face, but a more direct, 5.8-ish start is possible (and makes things a little more interesting). First bolt can be reached and clipped before climbing begins.  

  Look for the "optional dyno" to the flake just after bolt 3. Some might find this reachy move on a relatively blank face to be the crux; others might find it to be getting over the bulge just below bolt 5. The route begins to move slightly left after bolt 3, and trends back to the right on a low-angle to the anchors after clearing the bulge.  

  Mind the choss on the step across between bolts 4 and 5!

An average first pitch leads to a short but spectacular second pitch.  Climb begins on far left side of east face.  P1: Take one of several starts (5.7 to 5.10-) to meet at a large boulder, then scramble behind boulder and follow the cracks/chimney to a large ledge with an old bolted belay.  P2: follow the obvious dihedral up, then up and right past bolts to the bolted belay for The Blade Of Damascus.  The corner is very clean and has only a few holds, but excellent stemming gets you to the top.

Start in the flared crack down and right from Juggalo Gigalo. Climb through the low crux to the tree. Cruise easy moves up the left crack until it reaches the upper bolts on Juggalo and finish that route. Extend the first bolt out of the crack.

“He got hair down to his knee, Got to be a joker he just do what he please”Start next to digital minimalism behind a tree in right leaning fingers crack. Take crack to corner, turn corner using long slings the whole time! I can’t stress this enough. Once around the corner take crack to a ledge with a leaning pillar. Continue in left trending wide hands crack ti fingers and slab finish. 

Possible seasonal closure/avoidance for Coopers Hawk nest w/eggs next to pitch 1 anchors. Nest active as of Spring 2020.

 In the bottom third a tenuous mantle got my attention. You can use the crack and flake to the right of original start also. The first pitch is mostly a hand crack with excellent protection.

 Second pitch climbs up through a wide crack containing chimneys, OW and roofs. Nothing harder than a 5.8 with great and varied protection.

 Top out and rap south face.

The first pitch was climbed by a party, at that time the crux was filled with loose chock stones and piles of rocks. We cleaned them out and the new crack is quite a bit more difficult. P1:Start in chimney that slowly tapers and forces you out. A few crack moves lead you to a foot ledge. Rest up and decide how to tackle the overhanging offwidth! Pull the flare and up into the cave! 2 bolt anchor 60’ 5.10+P2: leave cave up the crack system past a tree trending left the base of a sweet hand crack! Take hand crack until you can’t and then head left to finish up on the last bit of zen plum! 2 bolt rap 90’ 5.8 

The crux is after the ledge, protected well and not bad for a slab move. A key edge on the right side of the arete helps me dance onto the face.   

  The rappel /lower off is exposed and partially free hanging. Watch your landing to be sure you arrive at the ledge.

Getting off the ground and off the upper ledge are the most mentally challenging sections although the bolts are close enough. Be sure to clip the first bolt off the deck to protect your belayer on the ledge.Rappelling is a concern too. It is best to rappel to the ground with a 70m to keep the rope out of South Crack. It's full of boulders and the rope got stuck on the first ascent coming down LOL.

Some good advice I once received was just walk. You need to clear you mind, just walk. Your girlfriend left you, just walk. Something’s not serving you, just walk.Boulder up to finger crack. Get established into crack and finger jam or use face holds to get to horizontal offwidth. Take the amazing, stellar, extra awesome offwidth out left to anchors! 

Use chockstones to get yourself into the offwidth start. Chicken wing your way up to the horizontal crack for some nice hand jams and a rest. The middle of the horizontal has a crux and some pretty amazing unique movements.

The higher part of the pitch was easy if you remained in the wide crack and more difficult if you climbed slab w/no pro.

Crux is the strenuous nature of the overhanging jams. Beautiful short crack that starts fingers and slowly opens to hands. Great rock, but sketchy landing for a boulder problem.

Burly. Right hand and feet: jams, arm bars and fists. Left hand and feet: crimps and edges. I was thankful to have an elbow pad on me for the arm bar. Don't be dismissive of it because it is short: you'll get a full body workout. 

 P1: Good OW and squeeze chimney technique helps a bit on P1, with the pro being all the way in the back. After emerging from the squeeze chimney, make a short traverse climber's right around the corner (don't forget to protect your follower) to a two bolt anchor. Move belay in front of large chimney. 50'

 P2: Head straight up the wide chimney, aiming for the small notch above the roof. The move to gain the left crack formed by the side wall and large roof chockstone doesn't protect well and is a bit heads up, but is very secure, especially if you start chimneying towards back where it's narrower and gradually come towards the front of the chimney. Climb up through the notch, and make a few additional moves directly up to a two bolt anchor. 50'

 *Direct Start* For those not wanting to do P1 (what's the matter with you?!), there is a direct start (5.8) located 30' to the right around the corner of P1. Climb the low angled ramp into the OW and build a belay at base of P2 chimney to bring up the follower. Add a BD #5 if doing the direct start (and #6 as well if not comfortable with OW; a fall onto the ramp could be nasty).

The crux is getting off the ground. Then step into jam nirvana. 

This route can be a (2) pitch climb or a (1) pitch climb if using a 70 meter rope. The 1st pitch is around 47ft of 5.6 face climbing through 3 bolts to a set of rap anchors. 2nd pitch is 98ft of slab face climbing with great holds and a couple of monster rails, 6 bolts take you to the shared rap rings at the top. If you want to get a true summit there are 2 bolts at the summit you can use to rap back down to the top set of anchors. This is a super fun route! A 70 meter will take you from the top to the ground in 1 rap but watch out for the rope eating crack on pitch 1.

Crux comes at the start. Follow the leaning wide crack that tapers to hands. Good enough feet help to ease the difficulties.   Enjoy!

Climb the 1st pitch of Tri-sac-a-saurus then continue straight up from the anchors climbing the right hand side of the face. Great slab climbing with excellent holds. (7) bolts will take you to the shared rap anchors. I wont ruin where the crux is but it is well protected.    This can be done as a single pitch or a (2) pitch route. If you are going to climb as a single watch out for the rope eating crack on the 1st pitch. A single 70 meter will get you down from the top.

A 150-200' cone-shaped peak in Stewart Pocket.  It has mostly great rock and nice views.  There are a couple of great routes on it, but it still has a lot of new route potential.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Stewart Peak